An adventure in Northumberland, the home of Montane…
So there is a back story here. The short version is that, after purchasing some of their products, I won a competition earlier in the year with Montane. We kept in touch and I promised a run sometime. This has led to some involvement with Montane in an Ambassador capacity, which is great because I’ve loved all of the kit I’ve used (I was pretty much kitted head to toe in it for the CCC!) and they produce some really great items! The idea for a weekend adventure was that we’d combine a ‘Run With Dai’ with a chance to test out some of the new winter range from Montane’s trail running series ‘Via’.
It’s a long ol’ journey from London!
The weekend started with the long journey north on Friday evening to Berwick-upon-Tweed (and a subsequent bus south from the station). The local bus from Berwick-upon-Tweed to Bamburgh is amazing. It has a built in tour guide so you are educated on the history of sites like Haggerston Castle, Holy Island, Lindisfarne, Belford, Budle Bay and Bamburgh Castle along the way! Fantastic. All buses should do this!
Wim met me at Bamburgh Castle and we headed straight off for a pint to make acquaintances. Over the last 8 months or so we’d only ever talked over email. It was surreal and amazing to, after so many months, finally meet someone who I’d solely communicated with digitally. He didn’t quite have the Scottish twang I expected but in no time at all we were finding out more about each other beyond our common interest in running. The whole weekend Wim and his wife (Rosie) made me feel so welcome and spoiled me rotten with home cooking and delights!
The vague plan for the weekend was to run into the Cheviot hills. We’d start by driving to Ingram where we’d meet Ross, a fellow ambassador (and local farmer!) who knew the land inside out. He’d pretty much be the guide for the day, physically running with us for 3 hours and guiding us in absence with the directions he’d pointed out of where we needed to go after he would leave us.
Ross ended up staying the whole day with us. His directions and knowledge were priceless!
We packed our bags and, along with Margot (Mags, the energetic four-legged companion), headed off to Ingram, the gateway to the Cheviots. Wim had sourced us some tops to test on the run – The via Dragon and the Fireball Verso.
Spoiler alert, the gist of my reviews are:
The Dragon is a great mid-layer. It has a Zipped front for fit and breathability but also unique double cuffs which provide emergency mitts when the weather turns. . These were super handy when running in the wind.
The Verso. Same as the old one but some tweaked designs – New colour variants, Different (improved) cuffs and an upgraded insulation material. Again great when running in windy conditions. I loved both these items and was reluctant to return them afterwards!
Anyway, off running we went. First we headed up the field paths towards Dunmoor Hill. It quickly became apparent that the ‘trails’ would be few and far between. The land was mostly subtle in its path and direction and not as mainstream as many other trails and national parks you will find. Our first challenge was to navigate a livestock field full of cows and a warning from Ross – The livestock here was a little volatile and he’d recently been chased out of the field! We tentatively rounded the ‘crazy’ cows and continued up. From Dunmoor Hill we had views of what lay ahead. The next peak and the second highest in the area (I think that’s right) – Hedgehope Hill. The run down was brisk and boggy and our feet were soon soaked through.
Temperamental Cows
Up Hedgehope Hill we went. A slow bimble as we climbed. The Dragon top was great here as my fingers felt the wind and I was able to quickly warm them without stopping to unpack my gloves. It was so easy to fold the cuffs over into the mitts! As we reached the top we surveyed the land. It was what I’d describe as lumpy. Rolling hills as far as you could see. Very little ‘flats’ between the hills. I love this. We layered up as the wind increased. I put on the Fireball Verso. The bright red outer Featherlite windshield making me standout in the gloomy grey summit. I was instantly warm.
From here we had some options as to how we’d get to The Cheviot, the highest point clearly visible and standing 815m up ahead. Running the ridge line from Hedgehope we soon veered right and off the beaten track. We opted for the shorter but arguably harder “straight down and up approach”.
We were soon bounding and leaping through the waists high ferns and lavender, but not leaping as high as Mags who was like a rabbit vanishing into the soft underground between each leap. I don’t know how many times I laughed at the sight of her leaping through the foliage or thinking she could catch the birds she disturbed!
As we crossed the stream we looked up at the Cheviot in front of us. All 815m of it in its glory. Up we would go. Sometime later, after several rests and many wine gums we made the top. Crossing a field we made our way into the slab path (leading to the Pennine Way) and ran left (towards the English/Scottish border). We soon came across the summit’s Trig stone and chatted to the holiday hikers already there taking a rest.
We continued back the way we’d came. Along the top of the Cheviot before heading down to Langleeford. The run down was great. Mostly soft ground and not too rocky along with great views of Hedgehope, Dunmoor and beyond. This was one of the main tourist paths walkers would take to summit The Cheviot. Several large bogs needed jumping, one leaving me with fear and pain as I landed awkwardly. But before we knew it we were at the Langleeford car park and crossing the stream at Hearthope burn. This was so idyllic.
It was time to climb again as we decided on our route back toward Dunmoor and Ingram. We’d go via Housey Crags / Langlee Crags and once again were soon winging it cross country. The terrain here was blind and again often at waist height so a walk was in order. In the distance the burning at a farm could be seen and acted partly as a guide as we navigated towards the tree line of Threestoneburn Wood.
Housey Crags
By now the sun was out. We’d hoped for some ‘proper grotty’ winter weather to really put the gear to the test but had instead treated with glorious sunshine as the afternoon came. More of this and we might have ended up with a sun tan from the day!
There was a huge area of deforestation and commercial timber harvesting which we crossed at Threestoneburn Woods. A completely different type of terrain and views. The burnt crops were hard, pointy and sharp so we carried little Mags across. We were soon on the tractor paths for the machinery to access the forests and ran onward for a while, passing some walkers we’d seen earlier in the day.
Again the path soon changed as we walked through the remains of a harvested woodland. The wood once again dead and uneven. Reaching the other side we were back on the incline we’d started out on when we climbed to Dunmoor Hill. This meant it was time to head black down and pass the crazy cows once more. As we neared, they separated. 3 stood guard on the perimeter of the herd and eyeballed us intently as we passed. From here it was a gentle stroll back to the car. 20 miles of adventures covered. This turned out to be the furthest run Ross had covered. Amazing.
The route of the day’s adventure
Throughout the day Wim and Ross talked about some of the local races in the hills. They sound like they would be pretty brutal, that and the excellent calibre of local runners who live and breathe these hills would make for an interesting challenge!
As we arrived back to base with achy feet and moans a plenty, Rosie greeted us with an incredible home cooked cheese and leek lasagna. This was exactly what we needed (along with the warm bath!) to replenish after the hard graft of the day.
Despite all the running, Mags wasn’t done. She is fascinated by balls and wanted more running as she kept fetching her ball and demanding it was thrown for her to chase. I couldn’t keep up with the demands!!
The next morning we forced our tired legs out of bed for another little run. We drove into Bamburgh and off to the beach for an ‘easy’, flat 5km down the coast. It was brisk and cold as the wind blew. Another great chance to put the Verso to the test!
The beach views were stunning as, on one side you had the sand dunes and vast land of Bamburgh Castle and, on the other the cost and the Farne islands (apparently a great place for diving and seal spotting!). As we were looking out across the cost we caught a glimpse of a porpoise bobbing close to the shore line doing its morning ‘thing’.
Mags loved the run and it was the first time I heard her make a sound all weekend as she barked and played with the other dogs out on the beach. I loved the run so much less when we finished and waded into the ice cold sea. I got waist high before I couldn’t handle it any longer and ran out back to the beach. Probably the quickest I moved all weekend!
Soon it was time to go and start my long journey back to London and the reality that is Monday to Friday, until the next adventure that is!
So it turns out that I’ve been nominated for the personal blog category with the Running Awards. I’d love your support and votes. If you like what you read and you’d like to vote for me you can click this link and find “RunWithDai” in the nominees. Thanks!
Sporting History was made on the 16th September 2018. You don’t need me to tell you what happened. On such an incredible day I wrote my own piece of history. I ran a sub 3 the marathon. Something that was never a dream or goal. But something that became a ‘thing’ for me. A monkey on my back in 2018.
Let’s rewind a little. 7 months ago. February. I’d just ran a 3:07 marathon in Muscat and a 3:03 in Malta. My mind went into overdrive. Out of nowhere I suddenly thought I can. I believed. I wasn’t patient though and pushed it. Limassol was the the spectacular climax and crash and burn affect of my naivety and disrespect.
It created this monkey. He isn’t cute. In truth he’s a little mouthy Pratt. He’s loomed over me like a shadow. A shadow that filled me with doubts and fears. What if it happens again, but with more severe consequences? What if I keep trying and keep failing? What if I can’t do it? What ifs. So I did what I do best and blocked it out. Shut it down. I succumbed to the fear. If I don’t try, I can’t fail. And that’s how the next two marathons went.
I found a comfort zone. A safe place. I ran at a pace I could enjoy and where no harm could come to me. Whilst it was great that I could enjoy the marathons in such a way, I wasn’t challenging myself or confronting my fears. A manifestation that I’m almost cheating myself. That has been my norm since. I just accepted it. Maybe one day I’d try again.
There’s been a gap of 5 months since my last marathon as I’ve explored the trails over the summer. September though brought about My next marathon. Berlin. One of the Abbott World Major Marathons. Originally this was going to be my main race of 2018. After obtaining a place I thought I was going to train and go for a GFA (London) time (which annoyingly I’d achieved in Malta until they changed the criteria!!) I then found the trails. This all changed. Two weeks before Berlin I’d now be tackling the biggest physical challenge of my life – The CCC. I had no plans for Berlin once again. It was an afterthought. A secondary race in the shadows cast by the mountains.
Berlin would be special in a different way though. I was in a ‘group’ of 20+ other runners that had formed together through various connections. It was going to be a very social and enjoyable weekend. I was looking forward to that.
Berlin Squad
Berlin Squad
As the race approached, my mind only turned to Berlin after I finished the CCC. Two weeks to go. What was my plan? My legs still ached. I hadn’t ‘trained’ for roads or speed. I wasn’t in a training nor taper period. I was in a period of recovery. I didn’t know how long this feeling would last. So I reverted back to the shadows and found a safe option. I decided that 3:15 to 3:30 would be my safe zone. I’d be happy with a time like that. 3:30 was more than comfortable at Helsinki and a time of 3:15 would provide some challenge. Deep down I was scared I’d leg it. You always get caught up in the stampede at the start of a race. So a secondary goal was not to run faster than an average pace of 7:10 mins per mile. That would be a 3:10 marathon pace. Contain yourself was my message!
That’s it. Plan formed. Now to enjoy the weekend…Arriving Saturday AM I bullied my way through the mayhem of what is the biggest race expo I’d ever experienced. I was in and out. Nice and easy. I met up with various members of the group to watch the football and later again for pasta. Spirits were high. Everyone was ready to attack their race. By this point though I’d already made my one ‘mistake’. As I’d run a faster time since I obtained a place at the marathon, I’d had my starting block moved up a place. I’d now be running with 1,000s of other runners capable of a 3:00-3:15 marathon.
Pasta eaten, it was time for bed. Bobby and I were staying on the 6th floor of the Wombats hostel. There is a roof top party every night till 3am. Great. This was our concern. Turned out it wouldn’t be a problem at all. The sudden awakening we got at 4am to the incredibly loud sound of “Achtung!!” Would be our problem. What’s this? What the fuck?! After listening to the German message, we eventually received the English translation. Something along the lines of “Attention. This is the hotel manager. Due to an emergency in the building we request that all guests make their way outside of the building immediately”. A fire alarm. Oh bollocks. We got up and started compiling our race kit. Who knew how long this could go on for! As we were doing so the hotel manager entered our room and started questioning us. Apparently it was our room that had sounded the alarm! “We’ve been sleeping!!” we told him.
race ready far too early!
Seriously?!
After about 30 mins of standing around outside I had to laugh as a couple belatedly came out of the lift, with all their luggage and even their bed sheets?! Err OK. Talk about a sense of urgency! We were finally then let back into our rooms. False alarm. Time to try and get some more sleep before we really have to wake up!
Eventually we really did have too wake up. I was ready for the morning. I knew what was needed. One lingering thought from Limassol was that I hadn’t fueled sufficiently. So I’d planned to get 1500kcals into me before I left the flat. That was mostly done trough 4 Quaker porridge oat bars. I’ve recently found these and they are far easier to consume than the equivalent amount in bowls of porridge. I wasn’t going to be caught out this time!
What then felt like way too soon after being woken in the night we were at the event village. Holy smoke this place was massive. It felt like I’d walked for an eternity trying to find my bag drop and subsequent starting block. Penned in, the block started to fill up, it was a busy one! In front of us the ‘elites’ and pros were warming up and the wheelchair racers were setting off. The atmosphere was electric and we were whipped into a frenzy as the front runners were introduced and the count down begun.
The starting blocks filling up
getting ready
In a flash we were off. The heavy footsteps of 1,000s of runners pounding the tarmac. The thumping built as the crowd gained momentum. Within a minute we were over the line, split into two masses either side of the road, we were off!
The effect of my ‘mistake’ became immediately apparent. Everyone here was fast. We accelerate and were at a sub 7 Min per mile pace in no time. Weaving around the bends and roundabouts the mass of runners stuck together. We wouldn’t be splitting and spreading out anytime soon if at all. This was it. I was in this. I was overtaking people. People were over taking me. I kept checking my watch as the pace fluctuated between 6:40 and 6:55 Min Miles. Over the first 2-3 miles I kept telling myself “run your race”. “Don’t worry about the others”. Despite it all, I felt good. My legs were lethargic, but my body felt strong. My breathing was easy and my heart felt calm. Sod this. Sod my ‘aims’. I’m going for it. My plan was out the window. Sub 3 hours was the goal. If I didn’t get it, it didn’t matter. No pressure. But if I could maintain a 6:50 average pace then I’d do it. If I didn’t then hell, there might be a new PB involved or at any point I could slow it meet my original aims. It was all good. Absolutely zero pressure.
I went for consistency. This was a big difference to my last attempt where I heavily overloaded the first 10 and then second 10 miles with an unsustainable pace. There would be no letting up today. No room to slow. Just keep going. One thing I’ve learnt from the trails is consistency. Over a long duration your current pace doesn’t matter. The average pace over the distance is what defines your time. So for 26.2 miles I would try to be as consistent as I possibly could.
The downside of my change in approach was that I was focused. Ok, yes that’s a positive. But it meant I cannot recall much of the run. I was constantly checking my watch and monitoring my pace. Constantly processing my thoughts to step up or slow down. Maintenance was critical. Going too fast would burn me out. Going to slow could mean I would struggle to recover the time as the fatigue kicks in later on.
I still manage to enjoy
The main disruption to my focus was the water stations. I knew they’d be cups. However, I didn’t want to wear a hydration pack trough out the race. Despite being so far forward in the progression of runners though, each station was an apocalyptic scene. Plastic everywhere. The water areas were flooded with puddles. People crashing into each other and spilling water all over the place. None of that compared to the sound – The noise as thousands of plastic cups were dropped and trampled. Cracking and splitting. It was a horrific sound. It also highlighted the shitty-ness of runners. Come on people, have some tact. It’s not hard to put your empties in the bin or move to the side of the road to drop/throw them. Multiple times this day I was hit by flying cups of water or nearly covered in a persons spit. People really are selfish dicks. My challenge at each water station was to drink enough (without choking myself as I threw the water down my throat) and get back up to target pace as soon as possible. Each stop would be a repetition of this challenge. Some harder than others as the crowds and fatigue varied.
The miles counted down. Things I saw (or remember seeing) were few. Eventually the halfway point was passed. Half a marathon to go. 1hr 29mins elapsed. Same again. It felt like an age for that first half. My thoughts were dominated by nothing else. Rarely did my mind wander from the constant calculations and visitations of that sub 3. I recall thinking back to Vallorcine during the CCC. At that point there was also about a half marathon to go. A mammoth half. This would be nothing by comparison. I could do this. The mental challenge of the CCC was different. Here I could rest in the knowledge of it being over in another hour and a half. That was a real boost.
Passing the sites
The second half went by so much quicker. The atmosphere was incredible. The crowd was constant. The noise high and the music amazing. So many jazz and sax bands entertaining the runners and crowds, really lifting the runner’s morale. Berlin nailed it.
I was using all the usual tricks in my head to keep it going, keep maintaining. Counting down the kms. Converting the miles. Planning what I’d drink and when. I took a pack of Cliff shot blocks and took one every 5km from 22kms. I presume they helped. The flavour certainly did. I had a gel on hand (which I never ended up using) and 250ml of High 5 isotonic drink in a soft flask. I was saving the isontonic for the last 10km and to save me from the carnage of the water stations. My mind was focused and planned. 20 miles done. 6 miles to go. Just a morning run commute to work left.
There were two mental boosts for me at mile 20. Firstly an announcement that the world record had been broken. The crowd and the runners went mad. That’s insane! Everyone wanted to know the time. What a day this was. Secondly, another runner started shouting. “Who’s doing this?! Who’s breaking sub 3 today?!”. No one responded. Inside me though I started to believe even more. I wasn’t alone. I realised I was surrounded by other determined people chasing their goals, chasing their sub 3 dreams. I had a brief chat with the guy. We were doing this. We spurred each other on. I kept him in my sights for the rest of the run. He seemed determined enough that he’d make it.
Focused
I kept going. Kept adjusting and maintaining the pace. The miles passed by. I knew Louise and Becca would be at 38km waiting with the loudest of cheers. I was ready to look out for them. But first came the Adidas runners cheer zone at 37km. Wow. Just wow. There were hundreds of them. It’s a huge community but amplified at an Adidas sponsored world major marathon. The noise was insane. The roar as runners ran through was so uplifting. I’d now caught up with the 3 hour pacers too. They’d set off before me and I thought that, if I get in front of them and finish, then sub 3 will be certain. So I did. I slipped by and settled back into the rhythm. By the time I reached the girls I was in a strong mental place. I saw them and yelled. They went wild. Lou later told me that, on the trackers they’d been saying “Dai is going too fast. He’s going to fast” before realising “Dai is going for sub 3. He’s not going too fast, he’s on target'”. This made me chuckle. Setting myself some goals and changing them mid-run was clearly misleading for others!
That moment ‘you know’
After seeing the girls I powered on. Last 5km. Three miles. Don’t drop it now. But, here came my biggest challenge. I couldn’t tell myself this was happening. I couldn’t rest up. I’d been this close before. 1 mile from the finish it all went wrong in Limassol. Mile 25. I had to get passed mile 25. I had to feel strong at mile 24 (my last memory at Limassol!). I did. Keep at it. Keep believing. Keep focused. My watch ticked over, 25 miles done.
Go on, get nice and close up!
Now. Now is the time! My mind went into some sort of automatic self-diagnostic mode. My brain was sending signals to every part of my body. I could feel the information flowing back and my brain ticking them off. Check. Check. Check. It felt almost surreal as I acknowledged that my breathing was good. In and out through my nose. Deep and easy breathing. My lungs were good. My legs told me they were good too. Heavy, as they’d been all morning. But good. They wouldn’t let me down. My toe hurt. That was the worst response back. It was telling me there would be a blister at the end. A small price to pay. My heart was good. Not pounding. Just pumping rhythmically. My fingers clenching and relaxing by my side. My abs tight and holding me up right. My form felt good. My stride was consistent. My mind was clear. I was focused. 1 mile and a bit to go. Maybe 10mins max. This was on. I checked my watch and did the maths. Don’t drop the pace. Keep at 6:50ish for one more mile and this was mine. Soon I’d be at the Bradenburg Gate. Soon I’d be on the home stretch. That small insignificant bit of distance at the end of a 26 mile run. I told myself it’s nothing. It’s just that ‘extra’ bit runners do in training to round up to an even number. Go. Go.
Smiling through the gate
Under the gate I went. The crowds lined both sides of the road. Huge numbers. Huge cheers. Runners everywhere either powering on or succumbing to the moment and stopping. Cramping. Walking. I felt for them. But this was me and my time. I crossed the line. Stopped the watch. It was under 3 hours (2:59:27. Officially). It was close. I’d done it. Everything I’d said to myself to keep going was right. So close. One bad mile, One prolonged period of not focusing and those 30 seconds would have evaporated away. But it was done. And that was it. I went into some kind of blurred, subdued state immediately. Inside I was so happy. But I don’t recall much or the emotions. I don’t know if I screamed or jumped or anything as I crossed the line. I do know I was chuffed to bits though.
Looks like I was pretty pleased!
It was a long walk to the medals, to the water. I savoured it all. I saw the Runner who’d powered us on and we hugged it out. The long walk continued and I found Jordan ahead. I thought she must have also done it also as she was ahead of me. She’d come so close at 3:01 but had smashed her target and Pb. She was calling Chris. He was coming in just behind us at 3:07. He’d finished. He’d stopped at the medical tent to steady his legs. We walked back and met him after he’d collected his medals. Big hugs All round. He’d smashed his 3:10 target. We said we’d sign up to Boston in 2020. Here we go again…
Something tells me we were all very happy!
Over the next few hours the rest of the group finished one by one. We regrouped and celebrated each other’s achievements. Before going our separate ways until later.
I met and saw so many other friends and familiar faces out there that day (and weekend). PBs were shattered all over the place. What a day to be a part of. We celebrated that night. We laughed a lot.
Pbs
Pbs
Pbs
more Pbs
I might seem subdued to those I’ve spoken to since the race. Truth is, I don’t think the realisation has set in yet. I’ve played the sub 3 down so much this year that it probably hasn’t fully registered in my mind just how big of an achievement it is. I am though absolutely ecstatic with the outcome. Not just because of the time and achievement. But happy with the relief that the demons of the past have been put to the sword. The shadow lifted and the mouthy pratt of a monkey no longer is on my back trying to fill me with doubts.
Yes!!
I don’t feel that roads are my place anymore. I’ve nothing to achieve from them. I don’t need, nor want, to improve that time. It won’t provide me with any greater satisfaction. I’ll run road races again for the reasons of it being a world major (one day I’ll do the 6), for covering a marathon on each continent (although that doesn’t mean it has to be a road!) or if I get a place somehow. I won’t be looking for them.
My heart and feet belong in the trails. They’ve consumed me now. I enjoy the challenge more. The freedom and experience more. The camaraderie and more relaxed nature of them. I can go back to the trails now knowing that I’ve redeemed myself. Limassol has well and truly been assigned to the history books and a time of learning and self realisation.
I will take pride in opening my copy of the Berliner Morgenpost and seeing my name written in the newspaper. The time etched as part of my own history on this very historical day for sport.
I’m in the German news, sort of!
So it turns out that I’ve been nominated for the personal blog category with the Running Awards. I’d love your support and votes. If you like what you read and you’d like to vote for me you can click this link and find “RunWithDai” in the nominees. Thanks!
A brutal race deserves a brutal review…The CCC is indeed a brutal race.
Pre-race cheese
What follows might come across as yet another moan about yet another race I willingly signed up to. So let me firstly caveat it with the confirmations that I did enjoy myself, I did have a great race, I’m proud of my achievements and I’m happy I did it. Would I recommend the race to someone contemplating signing up, no. No I would not. If you get anxious, as I do, it would also be a definitive no!!
To save reading on (what follows will be ramblings about my trip to the alps as well as the race itself!) the shortest way I can think of summarising why I wouldn’t recommend the race is that it just doesn’t live up to the hype. Whether that’s caused by my false expectations and that my preconceptions were way off the mark I don’t know. But for me it just didn’t stand up to the prestige that surrounds the event. Let me also caveat that the recap that follows is going to be littered with contradictions. I know that. The good things were the bad things. The bad things were often the good things. It is a little hard to separate them.
The UTMB is like the Mecca of the trail running world. A Hollywood blockbuster of an event. I’m generally ignorant of the running world, the elites, events and challenges. But I knew of the UTMB week. 10,000 or so runners, the top trail runners in the world, rigorous qualification criteria, years of training and days of festivities. It’s hard not to know a little about this particular event.
The confirmation that led to many sleepless nights!
Since I obtained a place back in December, besides being a nervous wreck, I’ve met numerous runners who had, and who soon would also be taking part. I received so much advice and insight (for which I am grateful) and so knew a little about what lay in waiting for me. Everyone spoke of the same difficulties (e.g. congested single tracks) but spoke so positively about the races. However my experience and feelings soon went off on a different tangent.
Let me begin with the lead up to the ‘race’ from when I arrived in Chamonix. I was staying in a chalet with 6 others. Some I knew well (like Yvette who would be crewing me), some I’d met occasionally before and some where complete strangers to me. All shared a passion for running and exploring and each was here for a different reason, be it running one of the events, crewing a Runner, supporting friends, photographing the events or generally absorbing the vibes. This was a fantastic atmosphere to be a part of.
The morning after arriving, myself and Yvette headed out for a run with Alan. He’s a mighty strong and experienced runner. I was nervous of running so far the day before such a big run, but his experience and knowledge shone through when my heavy travel legs started to loosen up. It was also a great way to get some last minute advice from a guy who knows what he is talking about (Alan went on to smash the UTMB course this weekend!).
Heading off to register
Post run, feeling refreshed, I headed off to the event village to register. If ever there was an example of the scale of organisation involved in events, it is the UTMB registration process. The application, the website and the pre-race communications are rigorous and meticulous. Constant deadlines for submitting mandatory requirements (think qualifying evidence, medical certificates, contact information, transport services etc.) are the norm and the in-person registration is no different. It starts with a dedicated registration slot. After a short queue your chosen form of identification is used to confirm you as a registered runner and grant access to the registration hall. You are handed a personalised, random generated, mandatory kit checklist and join the snaking queues of checks that lay ahead.
Kit checks in progress
Phew, I passed!
The mandatory kit list is extensive and demonstrates the enormity of the challenge you are embarking on as you are left to fend for yourself, in some cases over multiple nights, in the mountains of the alps. It highlights the seriousness that the organisers place on health and safety, which is clearly a good thing. Thankfully for the CCC this year there wasn’t a need to implement either of the additional “Hot”/”Cold” weather kits! After placing the required items in a tray, they are checked. Thoroughly. It’s not sufficient to show just your phone, but that it works and has roaming for networks across the 3 countries the race spans. Any old waterproof is not sufficient, the seams are meticulously checked and you sweat nervously whilst your expensive equipment is deemed sufficient enough to progress through the checks. Once you receive the thumbs up you continue on your journey and trade your stamped kit checklist for your bib number and tracker. See, if you fail the kit check, you won’t be allowed anywhere near the race itself! Bib number received you are instructed on how it should be worn and passed on to the wristband and ‘pack’ check. Here you receive a wrist band according to your race and your race pack/backpack of choice is tagged with the race tracker. You cannot change the bag now! Next up you receive your dropbag and and advised on the route navigation, markings and signs you’ll see along the way that need your attention (warnings of danger, wildlife, delicate paths and when to stick to the track and when not to use poles). There really is no excuse at this point for not understanding what you’ll see. Finally, checks, tags and information complete, you secure your bus passes and assistance tickets (to admit your crew to the dedicated assistance checkpoints). There’s also a cheesy photo opportunity (free! Nice touch) and you are done. It really is a military operation but one of the smoothest, if most nerve racking, registration experiences I’ve had.
Post registration we met backup with Alan at the finish line and waited for Hanna (one of Alan’s teammates) to arrive at the end of here race – the TDS. Almost bang on her estimated finish time she arrived with a huge smile beaming across her face and waltzed across the finish line. It was near 11:00am and a decent crowd had formed at the finish line, cheering and whooping the finishers across the line to the chorus of “Allez, Allez, Allez”. More than ever I was ready for my turn now.
The weeks leading up to this weekend were repetitive. The same questions. The same answers. The same feelings. I was ready. I was excited. There was nervous anticipation mixed with self-confidence. I was fed up of waiting. I wanted it now. I wanted to run. One more sleep stood in my way. One more afternoon of overthinking every possibility that lay in wait.
After some lunch we headed off to meet Jana and Maggie. Jana and I planned to start the race together and Yvette and Maggie to crew us together. Some chat about plans and lots of laughter later we said our goodbyes until the morning.
The morning wait
05:00. The alarms are going, coffee is being drunk. The prep was complete. It was time to go. Finally. The morning started nervously as my watch had somehow drained of battery over night. It read 27% and it annoyed me. We met met up with Jana and Maggie in Les Bossons and hopped on the shuttle bus to the start In Courmayeur (Italy). The next time we’d see Yvette and Maggie would be over 12 hours later in Switzerland! The bus pulled up in Courmayeur, and then continued onward to a car park that felt an eternity away from the start. A rushed toilet start and more eating (fuel fuel fuel!!) filled the time as we made our way to the starting pens.
We wouldn’t be starting together after all. A staggered start meant I’d set off at 9:15, 15 mins before Jana. I was sure she’d make up 15 mins on the trails. The first few hours would be all walking and I knew she was eager to get ahead of the pack ready for the single track congestion. I text her to say my phone would be on flight mode (to preserve battery) and to look out for me. National anthems, talks from the mayor(?) and some crowd-hyping later it was time to go. There were photographers and drones everywhere. But also a helicopter cameraman. If ever you needed to know the scale of an event then needing a helicopter to get around kind of tells you how massive it is!!
Helicopters
A sweaty wait
The beginning of The CCC involves a climb out of the town towards Tete de la Tronche. When I did this on the recce run it took nearly 5 hours. It’s pretty much all up hill as you climb to 2584 m along single file tracks. Everyone had spoken about the single file, to try and get ahead of the crowds to avoid being too slow, but the reality is it just isn’t possible. There are over 2,100 runners. Over 2,100 strong runners (they’ve all had to qualify remember!!) and they all have the same idea. Immediately you fall inline. Immediately I experience some of the motions that will become a recurring theme of the race. The tapping of trekking poles as they strike the ground. The stench of sweat from the runners (myself included), the huffing and puffing of heavy breathers and the complete lack of spatial awareness humans have. You almost need to be a trained fencer to avoid being stabbed from trekking poles coming at you from all angles!
A glimpse of the Human Centipede off into the distance
As the climb begins to steepen the reality of the congested single tracks became clear. For long sections it is stop and start. So much so that my watch wouldn’t even registered we were moving it was that slow! Your personal space is invaded, continuously. Your view is not that of the scenic mountain views, but of the arse or the runner in front of you. It was one sadistic race director away from being a sporting version of the Human Centipede. It’s basically disgusting. Jana thought the bus smelt bad. The mountains smelt worse as your breathing space contained almost toxic combinations of runner’s sweat, muscle rubs, food reserves and farts (yep, that one was definitely me!). I wanted nothing more to escape the centipede and power on. But I knew the pace was consistent and good for preserving my energy for later in the race.
As you carry on upwards you are repeatedly impaled by trekking poles from the front and rear. You are rear-ended by the person behind you who isn’t watching where they are going and you are shoved by the runners who have a disrespect for everyone and everything around them by barging past. There was anger in me that should not exist in such a beautiful place. The bottlenecks are a real pain. But they have two causes I could see. Not just those runners climbing at a slower pace than the others around them (difficult I know, but it is possible to occasionally step aside to let people past, over such a distance it won’t affect your ability to finish or secure a set time. I was able to do this!) but also those more impatient runners who take any opportunity to barge past, cutting corners, going off track etc. They are the ones who create the funnel effect and cause the sudden stops to the forward motion of the centipede.
Reaching the first summit at Tete De La Tronche, the shackles are broken and freedom is sensed. The pack breaks up and a stampede begins. It was almost like a scene from the Lion King and I was slightly concerned I’d be caught up in a mass tumble as we all started hurtling down the mountain. We didn’t thankfully and the freedom of the trail was a welcome relief. I was running far faster than I probably should, but it felt good. It was just a few kms to the first checkpoint. Running into Refuge Bertone is a very steep and rocky down hill section. I was nervous of falling but far to occupied with my breathing. It dawned on me that, with so many runners stampeding down the mountain, the tracks were dusty and my mouth and eyes were being bombarded with dirt in the air. I was so ready for the relief of the checkpoint.
The was no relief at the checkpoint though. After being ‘tagged in’ (the race had excellent tracking of runners!) it was like being in a war movie as runners scrambled over each other to reach the rations. The fruit and savory offerings on the tables were grabbed in fist loads and water poured everywhere as volunteers frantically tried to please the thirsty hordes. I had to leave there quickly before I started windmilling to maintain my personal space. I was gone. I was outta there!
Robin representing the flag!
The next section lead to Arnouvaz via Bonatti (which offered a water refueling stop). Both sections were very runnable and ever so slightly less congested. When actually running, I found you often fell into groups that you were at a comparable pace to yourself and the paths on these sections were slightly more forgiving for overtaking – with the exception of the section where one runner got angry with the woman slowing everyone down as she persistently stopped to take photos! It was on this section I met Robin from Cardiff who I started talking to after noticing the welsh flag draped on his pack. We chatted on and off as we continued into Bonatti. It was great to finally talk to someone as the centipede was not only a slow moving beast but a soulless one. Being such an international event, there is far less camaraderie than I’ve come to enjoy on ultras. It simply isn’t as easy to have a conversation when everyone speaks different languages!! Sadly it does suck the life out of the journey and creates the Soulless Centipede.
The brief chat with Robin was also a relief for my brain as I’d realised how much my right foot was hurting. It felt like I had a blister or hot spot on the sole of my foot. Occasionally the impact of striking the floor would burn through my foot and make me grimace. I suspect that bounding over the rocky descent to Bertone was the cause. I made a not to stop at Bonatti and empty dust and dirt from my shoe as a precaution to further agitations. I’d have fresh socks and medical supplies waiting me a few hours away in Champex-Lac to look forward too.
As Bonatti came into sight there was a a steep incline to overcome. I was barely a third of the way up when I was hit with some pretty bad cramping to my left quad. I suffer a lot from cramps. My coping strategy is a stubborn one. I always try to just carry on through it. And so I did. Albeit painfully and slowly I managed to reach the top. Mountain water into my bottles, coke in my belly I was almost ready to go. I decided I needed a toilet stop and was disheartened to find the WC was downstairs in the refuge and also that there was a queue. I don’t know how long I waited but it was some kms later when I was overtaking runners I recognised before like (Robin!) that it must have been quite a few minutes – looking back at the ‘stats’ I lost 35 places at this point!
Not long after leaving the checkpoint the centipede was attacked by bikers. Whilst many hikers and walkers are out on the paths, it was generally quieter due to the event. These bikers didn’t care though and insisted on playing a game of chicken with the centipede and jostling for ownership of the path. It was a bad choice by the cyclists. They wouldn’t be winning this day. On the way down to Arnouvaz I was conscious of my fueling. I’d taken enough food with me and had plenty prepped with Yvette for each assisted aid station, but I knew the climb awaiting me to Grand Col Ferret would be draining. So I forced some more food down as we snaked through the mountain paths, crossing streams and rivers flowing with the energy of the mountains. Arnouvaz was one of the liveliest checkpoints. Supporters lined the entrance and exits and the atmosphere was buzzing. Inside the tent the now familiar scrambles were taking place as you bounced around like a pinball, fisting at the fruit and snacks. To watch me you’d assumed I’d not eaten in days as I squished oranges and smashed bananas into my face, juices smothering my beard. I don’t like bananas but I was eating as much as I could stomach to combat the cramps.
Outside the centipede reformed as we made our way towards Grand Col Ferret. Initially movement was slow up the single tracks as the usual mumbles of ‘pardon’ followed pole stabbing and the invasion of space. We came across signs indicating fragile land and to stick to the track. Signs ignored by many runners who jumped the tapes and ran amok to get ahead of the congestion. Unnecessary and disrespectful. I just don’t see what they achieved with this. Respect the environment! There was a brief widening of the path and I made my move. I hiked onward in space. Happy to breath the fresh air into my lungs.
I was aware it was now mid afternoon. I’d been out here a long time. The forecast was predicting rain and the clouds were starting to form. The climb to Grand Col Ferret would be a long one and I knew, if nothing else, it would be cold and windy up top. I made a decision to stop before starting the climb (up to 2537 m) and layer up. I took out the Allez Micro fleece and switched my cap for a buff. Whilst it was still dusty, it was also time to say good bye to the sunglasses. I regained the places I’d lost through layering up as I powered through the climb. My decision was a wise one. With the turns on the mountain the centipede was attached by the wind and the first droplets of rain. Runners stopped all around me to start layering up and putting their waterproofs on. I carried on and before I knew it I was at the top. I almost missed the tagging of the bib number as I immediately started hurtling towards the downhill. The overcast sky meant it would be dark sooner than I’d like and I wanted to cover as much ground as I could before the light was lost. It was just minutes later that I came to a stop when the heavens opened and I knew I had to get the waterproof out. I’d be soaked through if I didn’t. Minimus Stretch Ultra applied I was off again…vrooom…
When I did a recce run, I loved this section and it was the same feeling here. Gravity and momentum throwing you forward on a forgiving track. For a moment at least I was free again. On my mind, a few miles away, would be the descent into La Fouly. And soon enough I was there, the point where we had cow-gate on the recce and had to go off track, no such issues this time as the cows were nowhere to be seen. As I rounded the cow shed though I immediately encountered another danger. Mud! I wasn’t ready for this. As I raced passed a few more cautious runners I felt my soul jump out of my body as I skidded and slid around the bend. Oh oh. Up ahead there were runners sliding all over the place, like a mass spin-out on Mario kart following a few banana skins being dropped. I tried to run. I was sliding everywhere. A runner, Juan from Mexico, let me passed and was in hysterics as I slid 180 degrees and started sliding down backwards like Bambi on ice, waving my arms comically overhead. How I didn’t fall I’ll never know. We laughed at each other as we slid our way down the mountain. I won’t lie, I was terrified. The gravity and momentum was not a great pairing with the mud! At the bottom the gravel tracks into La Fouly were a welcome relief. Onward we ran to the checkpoint, almost a marathon covered.
Inside La Fouly was the mayhem continued. I joked with the volunteers as I chowed down on the banana, oranges and watermelon before discovering the joys of biscuits and dark chocolate. My taste buds were thankful. I occupied my mind watching a conversation between the medics and a topless runner. He was insistent that he didn’t need the layers. Weird. It really was quite cold, even for me. I was expecting to see Maggie and Yvette here supporting Jana. But they weren’t. I didn’t know why but assumed it was a timing issue. I think I arrived far earlier than expected and Champex-Lac wasn’t too far away. I cleaned my shoes of mud, topped up my fluids and headed back out into the rain, hands and cheeks bulging with chocolate and biscuits. I walked on, danced with the lady from the CompressSport tent who was giving out sweat bands, and munched my way back to the trails.
Once again I knew there would be some decent running on this section and I quickly covered the ground to the ‘tree-lined’ path I loved so much on the recce. As I set off down it a runner went by and some confusion entailed as he looked back and talked. I thought that he had thought I’d said something. Turns out he recognised me from Instagram (As Ron Burgundy would say “I’m kind of a big deal”. I’m not!) and Wild Trail Runners. I chatted with Marc shortly before stopping for a brief walk, letting him carry on. I could sense the evening sky becoming greyer and greyer so stepped back up to run through the scenic Swiss villages of Praz-de-Fort, Les Arlaches and Issert and to the start of the Sentier De Champignons. I knew this path well. I recalled the wood carvings and knew it wasn’t much of an incline into Champex-Lac. I stopped to remove my waterproof again and lighten up so I didn’t overheat as I ran the last bit to the road at which point I packed away the poles ready for entering the first assistance zone. I was welcomed to cheers and clapping and the sight of Maggie and Yvette with cameras in my face. A little trail-jig and Yvette directed me into the aid station.
Maggie and Yvette ‘bringing me in’ at Champex-Lac
This is where Yvette delivered her crewing A-game. She tended to all my needs and made me feel at ease with confident wording and assessment of my performance. I was flying. Well ahead of my ETA and explained why they weren’t at La Fouly. We’d managed to find a place by Marc(!) and we chatted some more as Yvette fetched me pasta and coke. I started charging my watch and set out re-organising my kit and wiping my face with refreshing wipes (Tip, Nivea ones are the way forward, my skin loved it!). It was nice to sit down for a moment. Now the time has come which I was dreading – it was time to clean my feet, inspect the hot spot damage, do some general maintenance and get some fresh socks and a clean t shirt. It was revitalising. I felt good! Yvette checked my foot. No visible damage of concern. Some wet wrinkled skin seemed to be the cause of pain. Blister plaster applied I was happy knowing it was nothing to cause concern. I took a moment to record a voice memo to myself (recording the thoughts you are reading now) fixed my charging watch to my wrist (using the new sweat band to hold the charger and cables in place!) and set back out.
Getting that Watch charged…
connected…
and the belly filled up!
I’d spent just under 40 mins recovering and needed to get going again. First stop, mandatory kit check. Aaarrgh! I’d just packed it all away neatly! Waterproof trousers, jacket and phone checked and I was allowed back out on my journey. Second stop…toilet. The stomach needed some “free-ing” (I had more eating to do!!). Job done. Third stop…the lovely lady from Bristol who cheered me on. I joked for her to come with me as she cheered and she did! We walked and talked. I think she was concerned when I joked I’d rather be somewhere else. Turns out she has family and friends in Swansea. We hugged as we reached the lake and acknowledged I needed to run again. Faith in humanity restored, a lovely gesture from a stranger and a huge boost. Onward…
Waiting for the mid-race kit check
Soon after, I had to stop for a forth time. The night had indeed darkened quicker than I hoped and the post-lake path led into the forest trails. I needed my head torch out. Damn. I walked on as I fiddled with the power. It wouldn’t come on. I thought I’d screwed up the locking mechanism, and perhaps I had as the battery was dead. Bollocks. More time wasted searching in the back pack, but soon there was light! Today was being dominated by tech mishaps!
I was wearing the Petzl Reactik torch and it was awesome. As it adapted to the changing light conditions I was occupied and entertained. So much so I can’t recall reaching the next incline! But here I was. Hiking up again. Up indeed, off in the distance I could see the flickering lights of the centipede climbing the towering mountain. It was a long way to look! Head down, sticks out, that’s the way we like to climb. I was looking for distractions again. I liked this climb compared to some of the others, but this would be my first experience of such a climb in the darkness, and I knew it was a long and winding one. The distraction came in the form of watching the rain. A gentle but relentless flow of water coming from the darkness, visible for mere seconds as the head torch lit it up as it fell. It was oddly satisfying and mesmeric. I was disturbed briefly from my trance when I misplaced a footing crossing a stream. Damn, fresh socks were now soggy socks. Oh well.
I’d left Champex-Lac fairly light in terms of fluids. I’d (or rather, Yvette) filled my two 500ml soft flasks but I’d kept the bladder as it was part filled from La Fouly. The checkpoints were fairly evenly spaced over the remainder of the course and I knew up at Bovine there was a water fountain if I needed it. I wanted it! I loved the ice cold mountain water available throughout the route and this one was very much welcomed. A hose had made the fountain more accessible and I refilled, gulping back the icy-goodness. A little further to the summit and it was another fairly runnable downhill into Trient again. But wait, what was this…I hear Queen? Was that “We Will Rock You”? Yes it was. Someone was having a party in the distance. How nice for them. The volume increased as I closed in on the venue and I recalled the same song being played at Arnouvaz during my recce. And then, to my delight, I entered La Giete where the music was originating. Another unexpected checkpoint with water on the go. Brilliant. I took a moment, filled my bottles again, ate some more food, removed my waterproof yet again as the rain had gone and enjoyed Rag N Bones Man “Human” before carrying on. Lets Do This!
Switching up the kit!
I was expecting the checkpoint in Trient to be near the campsite, but it wasn’t. Before I knew it I was being welcomed in by Yvette and Maggie and their cameras. Thank God they were there because the entrance was so confusing. There were runners coming and going in all directions and it really wasn’t clear which way you needed to go. We found some space in the corner and Yvette set about working her magic. She absolutely nailed the crewing. The atmosphere was surprisingly upbeat in Trient, probably because of the weed Alpine techno music pumping out above us. We danced and laughed, taking a moment to enjoy ourselves. I think we’d been fairly organised in what we needed to do at each checkpoint. It was mainly fill my bottles, give me food and make sure I don’t get too comfortable! But here I needed a slight change. I’d noticed, I was hot. Too hot. Not just when running, but when hiking too. I’d brought an extra layer, thicker than the Allez Micro I was wearing so decided to swap the t-shirt and Allez Micro for the Spider hoody. It was the right call. Taking off the Allez Micro I realised how wet (with sweat) it was. If I’d continued into the night with this I would have become very cold I’m sure.
As I was finishing up and re-packing, Jana arrived! The predatory mountain goat had done it, she had made up the time deficit and caught me. Amazing perseverance. She welcomed me with two middle fingers. Lovely. Maggie forced her to eat something before we both set out together, about 30km left to go. Knowing the next checkpoint was “just” 11km away was a great boost. So off we went.
Reunited on the trails!
Climbing up to Les Tseppes was tough. It’s a steep old climb. Most of it we covered in silence. Silence that was only broken up as I muttered profanities at the lady in front of me who had absolutely no control of her poles whatsoever. She was a complete liability, huffing and puffing and groaning away and 4 times nearly decapitating or piercing me with her poles. I couldn’t understand it. Neither could the runner who’d paused on the side of the track and was almost impaled as she passed. Soon the path gave me and Jana the chance to overtake and we gladly put the effort in to get away.
I was ready for the top, ready for my favorite view point from the recce, although knowing it would be darkness and I’d see nothing! We joked about the head torches up ahead and questioned if the stars were more glimpses of the centipede sparkling up high?! The summit came, I knew the path well again and assured Jana there were some good running opportunities up ahead. We paused for a moment as I once again removed my waterproof. We were off. Feet to the ground, let’s make some dust. Down we ran as Jana shouted out from behind me “Pardon, Passe?!” to help free our way. She was eager to run it all, but I knew some steep and rocky parts lay in wait so held us back slightly before the path into Vallorcine opened into a wider stony way. Hard underfoot, but free for movement and overtaking. Down into the green forest we could begin to hear the cars, the river, the trains below us. We kept going. Crossing the bridge into Vallorcine I felt good. I felt strong, I continued running all the way, zipping into the checkpoint as Maggie and Yvette were checking in. Perfect.
Last assistance point. More Food. More pep talks. From here I entered the unknown, the part of the course I’d not recce’d. Everyone talks of La Flegere. How tough it is. All I knew is that I had about 19km left to run. I could begin to rationalise it. A half marathon. Sure, a mountain one, but a half marathon. It hit home when the girls told us it was about 4 and a half hours to go. Oh, Ok then. A big half marathon! But from here, no turning back. Other than a water station up at La Flegere, this was the last checkpoint. Given the pace we’d been running, I could walk to the finish line from here within the cut-off times. Confidence was high. Praying for no incidents or injuries, this was the first time I really believed I could complete the route. We set back out in good spirits. We power hiked most of the first part of the route as it was fairly flat. At this point a strong hike with intent was faster than our average pace over the day and not far off running speed. Within minutes of leaving Vallorcine though I had head torch “issues” again. After trying for a while to turn it back on, I’d realised I was wearing it upside down. Idiot. Then, shortly after, the light was weak and flickering. I needed a battery change! New power source applied the hike could be resumed.
She’s not even laughing at the upside down torch!
Then, the mountains came for us. The incline began, and it was a steep one. Back into the familiar centipede routine. Head down, poles out, finding any way I could to block out the heavy breathing from those around me. The day before the race the course was changed. Due to a rock fall, the climb to La Flegere was adapted and a route variation was activated. Now we’d need to climb, descend then climb again rather than a continuous climb to the summit. Whilst not the highest point we would climb, it certainly felt like one of the steepest inclines (looking back at the stats now, it is no surprise that my slowest pace coincided with the second of these climbs!).
I hit my low point here. The intensity of the crowd of runners and head torches around me brought me down. My anxiety levels were rising and I was grumpy with the invasion of my space. Once again I had my head in someone’s arse the whole way and someone breathing heavily behind me. I swear I could even smell red bull on their breadth. It was disgusting. I wanted out. The darkness pulled me down further and, as we started the decline (before the final climb), I could sense all the pains I’d been blocking out. The walking at this point was more like lunging as we made our way down. Then I bashed my knee. It hurt like hell. Lunging down I bent my knee into a rock in front. The blunt pain shot through me. It felt like an eternity of agony as we continued down and then began repeating the whole process back up. In my mind I was trying to understand the size of the climb. To visualise the 500m or so of vertical required. It doesn’t sound far, but that’s probably something like 250-300 people (I’ve not done the actual math!) standing on top of each other. That is a lot. I had to adapt my mindset. I needed to to embrace the demons now. To come out stronger, to overcome them, I find you either have to shut them out (like I do with pain), or let them surround you. Let them consume you on your terms. This was my tactic now. I was hyper-aware of them all. The pain, the irritants, the noises, the false summits, the size of the climb, the unknown that lay ahead, the uncertainty of the finish. I focused on them all. I wouldn’t let them beat me. I recalled some advice Alan gave me the previous day. He told me to create a false finish. La Flegere. He told me that the race ends there. Get to La Flegere and you can get to the finish. I did just that. I focused on the summit. I knew it must be close now. I knew Jana was somewhere close by in the centipede too. I couldn’t see or hear her though. I knew I had to carry on alone from here. That my pains couldn’t rub off on here. I kept going. The path widened and I took the chance to break ahead for some space as the climb continued up. False summit after false Summit, I kept sensing I saw the checkpoint, lights in the distance, music, something, anything. Each time I was let down until Finally the tent flickered up ahead.
It was the worst checkpoint of them all. It felt like a place were people go to sacrifice themselves to the mountain or something. The silence was deathly. Chairs lined the tent with deflated runners sitting in them heads held in their hands. The volunteers looked like they had enough too. I wanted out no sooner than I entered. Fill my water I thought. Get fluids because you need to run from here before the mountains claim you too. I was ready to go until another run stopped me. He needed help with his pack. I didn’t want to. But I had too. I gathered his stuff and helped him adjust it as quickly as I could and I was out. It was time to go home. False finish complete. This was happening. I was finishing this race. 8kms or so, mostly downhill. I need to run. Off I went. Running.
I don’t know what happened here. But I won my battle. My mind had been fighting for I don’t know how many hours climbing to a Flegere, and now my body took over. It’s as if my legs said “Don’t worry Dai, we’ve got this. Leave it to us”. I just kept on running. The decline zig-zagged down. The path was stony but smooth at the same time. The drop off the mountain face was terrifying! I’ve not done much running in the dark. Never mind running down a mountain in the dark but I was flying down (don’t get me wrong, there were people flying even faster than I!). I was amazed. My body and mind were awake to the challenge. My mind matching my legs for effort. I was inspired by the power of the brain. My own body. That it can, and was, reacting so quickly. In the darkness you have an incredibly short period of time to pick a spot to place your foot. To choose wisely. To calculate your path, to execute your choice. To plan ahead maybe just one meter at a time. It was incredible how the body does this. The reaction time and processing power to keep you moving. It really fascinated me. Made me smile even. The enjoyment was coming back. That was until I rolled my ankle, resulting in a hop-hop-hop motion and a complete stop as the air completely left my body along with the profanities. It hurt like hell. Don’t go into shock I told myself. Get back on it and let the adrenaline power you through and deal with the consequences later (thankfully there were none!). I flew past runners with a smile on my face again. I sensed the finish. I must have now been a few miles at most as I dashed past Chalet de La Floria. I just kept going. Again I could rationalise this. A few miles. 20-30 minutes at most. Go go go.
Final push…
Sprinting to the finish…First Mountain ultra – CCC 2018
There were people up ahead, noise, spectators and supporters in the darkness whistling the runners through. We hit the streets. The temporary bridges (?!!) crossing over the roads. I recognised the path. We were near the race village now. This was it. I’m doing it. I was alive. I was smiling. I turned the head torch off. Run Dai Run. Over the final bridge crossing (seriously why?!). The glow of light from the town centre hit me. I was running through the streets now, people cheering. I smiled, I clapped back, I stuck my thumbs up. Yvette’s screams hit me. She egged me on as I ran. I ran on… and on… and on. The street went quiet and I stopped. What the fuck? I put my arms out in a gesture of “where am I going?” to a guy standing outside a shop. He just looked at me. I heard screaming behind me. A family were shouting at me. I turned and looked at them with the same gesture. They shouted more. I wish I knew the language. I pointed in the direction I was going and they shouted louder. I started running again. They shouted even louder still. I turned back and they gestured me toward them. Bloody hell! As I approached, they pointed up another street so on I went. Then they shouted loud again, wrong way, AGAIN! There was a lorry, coming out from the street where I needed to go. Blocking the fucking path. Seriously?! This was ridiculous. I squeezed past and ran. The small crowd that had formed (it was 06:00 in the morning!) clapped and cheered and I ran toward the UTMB finishers arch. I saw Yvette and Maggie. I was done. I crossed the line. At that was it.
My turn under the UTMB Arch
Gillet!
Literally, that was it. The end. Just like that. The most anti-climax and deflated finish to any event I’d ever done. I crossed the line and stopped, turned around in circles not knowing what to do. No one said a word. No one approached me. No instructions. No “well done”. No “this way”. No anything. I just sat down and waited for Yvette to find me. She came. We took pictures and she took me off to get my finishers. Gillet. I put it on. We went back, Jana had just arrived. Her friends were there. We talked, we laughed. We got cold. Ali gave us a lift back in his van (Thanks Ali!). And that was it. Over 21 hours of torture. The most subdued and depressing finish that was absolutely not worth what had gone before it. The buzz I had built up running down from La Flegere had been sucked out of me like an elephant drinking through a straw. I was spent.
Confused at the finish!
Over the next few days I spent a lot of time talking to people about these feelings. Some felt the same. Some didn’t. It was hard to process. I was grumpy. I was probably even angry to some degree. And that is why I wouldn’t recommend the race. It just wasn’t worth it. All the negatives clouded my memories. Over 21 hours of suffocation through congested single tracks dominated my memories. I still wouldn’t recommend it. Although I’d give this honest account to people who want to know what it is really like. Prepare yourself, don’t get consumed by the hype. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an incredible experience. But one you can recreate yourself. You don’t need to run it in one go, through the darkness and rain surrounded by strangers. Do it on your terms. In your own time. Stay over night along the way, enjoy the views, make it an experience. So what, you don’t get a gillet? You don’t get to say you’ve “raced it”. So what? I didn’t compete. I came 615th place. It is meaningless. The void I had on finishing left me so empty. For the first time ever in a race I wanted a medal! I never cherish medals. I want functional t-shirts. Here I got that AND a gillet. But I wanted something, some acknowledgement at the finish to say “you did that!”. So no, go do it on your terms and enjoy it. Don’t do it with your head up someone’s arse the whole way. I immediately felt no desires to do it again, nor any of the other races. Yes this is the generic “post run feeling”, but it has lasted longer than ever before this time!
Fresh faced Alan
How was the rest of the trip? well, the next morning we woke early to go follow Alan and see him cross the line of the UTMB. He absolutely smashed it and looked so fresh crossing through that arch. I might even have come close to feeling a little emotion inside watching him ‘aeroplane’ toward the line. Later that morning I went for a short “recovery hike” with the group from the chalet. I think they tricked me though as it turned out to be a 6 and a half hour, 15 mile hike up to La Jonction and back. Bastards. That hurt like hell, but sure was worth it for the views. The evening was for the after party and free socks (thanks Stance!) and pizza. It was nice meeting other runners and friends and swapping stories and experiences. Then, sadly it was time to head back to the reality of the city that is London.
Now, here comes the biggest contradiction of them all. Remember I said I wouldn’t recommend it? Remember I said I wouldn’t go back? Well, I still wouldn’t recommend it but writing all that you’ve just read through has made me realise how much I bloody loved it. Shit! As I joked with Hannah – it is a good thing that I don’t have enough points to apply for the UTMB next year…perhaps though, maybe, just maybe I’ll see you there in 2020…..
You’d thought I’d finished writing didn’t you? This is like the UTMB equivalent of a blog… I can’t finish without thanking everyone. Everyone I’ve spoken to about the race in someway. All those friends, family, connections and strangers. To the runners I met along the route, to those who sent me messages of support, the advice and insight I received leading up to the race. To all those that asked me how I was feeling, if I was ready. To all those who congratulated me, to those who asked how the recovery is going. To the other inspirational runners and photographers out in Chamonix last week. Thanks to Jana and Maggie for all the support and company over the weekend. But most of all, thanks to Yvette. She gave up her time to support me. To have my back. She slept less than I did, possibly stressed more than I did. Travelled for hours on end on buses, spent a fortune, cooked me food, eased my pains and made me believe. She never moaned. She never asked for anything. She just wanted to help. I didn’t, and probably still don’t, understand the tolls of crewing, but she owned it. She sacrificed so much for me and I’m so grateful. This wasn’t a journey or achievement of my own, but one shared! Thank You!
Crew buddies
Immense support from these two!
One of us nailed it, the other absolutely nailed it! Thank you!
I like to think that I’m a simple man – I’m not referring to the figurative “who am I?” or “where is my running journey taking me?” but to the literal interpretation of actually knowing where you are going. Sure there is now an abundance of route plans, maps, compasses, GPS gizmos and smart phones to navigate your way, but none are really a substitute for that first hand experience and having traveled a particular path before….
The path in this story is that of The CCC trial, part of the UTMB weekend and an event that crosses the mountainous borders of Italy, Switzerland and France. For me a path into the unknown. One of self discovery and exploration. One which would, literally, elevate me to heights I’ve not been to before, and there lay my concern. A fear I would struggle to admit openly – the unknown frightens me! But more on that another time.
Whilst I am confident in my abilities to ‘just get things done’, and am becoming accustomed to the need to just ‘keep going’ and the challenges (both physical and mental) encountered during an ultra, I recognised that, for me, running The CCC will be different. I was uncertain as to how and when those challenges might manifest in the unfamiliar terrain of the Alps, how I’d react to the environment and how I’d cope with the demanding cutoff times. I’d go as far as to say I was fearful that, on seeing and experiencing it, I wouldn’t want to face it again! The urge to say “enough” might come before I even start out! Hence the need to ‘Know where I am going‘!
A recce run
I was coaxed into planing a weekend on the CCC route to gain some experience of running the technical trails that I’d face in September. I am so glad I did. Besides more refinement of my kit and approach, I discovered the benefits of that first hand experience which I will so heavily rely on during the event.
I’ve written separately about the weekend, the journey and run itself here – CCC Recce, and now I want to reflect on those learnings I took away when I left the mountains and how I came to recognise the importance of a ‘recce’ run in the preparation for a race. With this in mind, looking back I can only say the experience was a valuable one. I learnt so much about myself, particularly my ability to prepare and adapt. Four themes in particular have stuck with me: ‘Familiarity of the route and understanding the terrain’, ‘Refining your kit and equipment’, ‘Planning an approach’ and ‘Building Confidence’. Summarising the benefits of these I’d say that….
Familiarity of the route and understanding the terrain:
A recce run develops a sense of familiarity with a route, and that leads to a feeling of comfort. I associate comfort as a good thing! You’ll feel confident in the route, knowing what lies ahead. These feelings will set your mind at ease and the route will be one less thing to worry about on the day.
Familiarity, I’ll be looking out for the wood carvings again!
Knowing the route should mean you’ll be less likely to get lost(!), minimising the time-pressures you’ll face through not adding unnecessary miles to your run.
You’ll identify exactly where checkpoints will be located and how you will arrive at and depart them, helping you to efficiently navigate through and spot your support crew!
Get to know the route!
The terrain is incredibly important. Having first hand experience of the elevation and type of ground you will be running will prepare you for the race. I fell on my recce run, through my own naivety when crossing a glacier. Better that I fall in training than during the actual race because I wasn’t assessing the risks clearly!
Don’t fall!
Know the terrain
Whilst you get insight as to when you will be able to run and when it won’t be advisable too, race day will be different. I’ve now seen and experienced terrain I’ll be traversing at night with nothing but my head torch to guide the way. What I think I can run will be different to what is actually safe to run on the day.
Refining your kit and equipment:
Most of the kit I tested on my recce was by Montane. Exceptional kit I love using. Preparing it is time consuming as you check and double check you’ve everything needed. Sorting my kit into my Montane Via series packs is now second nature to me. Dry sacks for race kit, nutrition, tech, med kits, recovery kit etc. all have their place and are packed in a way to make them accessible as needed. My prep’ has definitely been made easier through having top quality, lightweight and pack-able Montane gear!
How I used to pack
How I now pack
Knowing how your kit reacts – you might have worn it all numerous times before, but where it might be perfect over hours of continual use, it might not be until you’ve worn it 10-20hrs (or beyond!) that you notice different irritants! Test, test and test again! I intimately know my Montane Zip Fang, Montane Minimus Stretch Ultra and Montane Allex Micro kit now!
Adapting and adjusting your kit on the move is vital. Knowing when to start thinking about taking that extra layer out, swapping garments or re-shuffling your pack as you run. Putting this to practice is the best way to see how your kit reacts – your pack will sit differently with different items in it! Simulating race conditions will give you the experience to adapt it efficiently. The Montane Via series packs are great for making such adjustments – the adjustable bungee system is incredibly flexible to be able to compress the bag (quickly!) to meet your different needs.
Montane Via Series Pack
Montane Via Series Pack
I run with flexi straws on my bottles, on my recce run I found they moved about a lot as I ran. I’ve now refined the art of packing these in a way that doesn’t result in a constant jaw bashing!
No more jaw bashing – Securing those straws!
Planning an approach:
Until you know for certain where, and under what conditions, you’ll be running, any plans for how you’ll run, your pace, eating and refueling etc, will be an estimation.
Recce runs will give you the insight needed to know where you can make effective plans – I now know the hills (mountains!) and the terrain. I know where I can (and should) stop, where I should push on, were I should refuel as I move and where I can take a moment to recuperate and absorb my surroundings. My plans are more than just estimates now.
Run when you can
Push it when you can
Connect with your run when you can
It is too easy to look at an elevation chart and say “I can run this section”. As I mentioned, knowing what the terrain, the visibility (or lack of) and isolation of the route will impact your plans. Being able to adapt to the conditions as you go will be essential to maintaining momentum.
Eating at checkpoints is inevitable. Eating enough along the way to get to the checkpoints is critical! Power Hiking up 600m+ of elevation takes energy, reaching a summit and immediately running takes more energy. I’ve experienced the inclines, I now know where I need to fuel (and how much!) to make sure I’m ready for these challenges.
A recce isn’t a race, the race pressures are removed and you can spend time connecting with your surroundings. Make the effort to look up and absorb the environment, take some pictures and hard memories along the way. On race day this won’t be a priority and you’ll be preoccupied with competing or fighting the emotional stresses and fatigue to be able to enjoy it the same way.
Enjoy where you are
Have some fun
Absorb the surroundings
Build your confidence:
Familiarity breeds certainty. Certainty breeds confidence. You’ve been here before, you know where you are, you don’t need to worry. You’re starting the mental battle with an advantage!
When you are confident, you engage and rely on other sensations and feelings to assess your progress. Recognising past feelings at certain points of the route, how the upcoming section made you feel, you can draw comparisons from your experience and this time you know what was previously unknown. There’s no longer anything to be fearful of!
However, as easily as confidence can be built, it can be shattered quicker. The unknown can lead to ignorance and naivety. I’ve thrived off this many times with the “just do it” attitude. But, those moments of realisation (like recognising the enormity of your challenge), can be frightening. Be sure not to dwell on these thoughts and prevent them building into something more. Don’t get too comfortable!
During my recce I covered 80% of the route I’ll be running. I now have the confidence that the other 20% is achievable. I can rationalise it. It’s another 20km, I can do that. Its one more “incline”, I can do that. The finish is far closer than the start, I can do this!
“Fail to prepare, prepare to fail”
Would I encourage others to undertake such a ‘recce’ before a big run? Absolutely. For me the benefits are clear and ultimately the experience is vital and very worthwhile. Whilst we all react differently though, a recce run isn’t a complete solution. It may raise more questions that you’ll need to work through. Adjustments you’ll need to figure out for yourself some other way. And some things are more difficult to prepare for – like running for extended periods of time without sleep. As a “9-5” worker this is more difficult to plan. As a “5-9” adventurer you can push yourself so far but there will remain challenges to be faced on the day.
There are many sayings about being prepared. One of my favourites being “Fail to prepare, prepare to fail“. Do what you can to give yourself the best chance of success, know where you are going!
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Last year I ran the Stour Valley Path 100km (SVP100). I found it tough going. This year I went back for more. There was a slight twist this time round – I already knew other runners and I’m far more experienced (where as the SVP100 2017 was my 2nd Ultra, the SVP100 2018 was my 5th of the year!). I Met Chris on the course last time out and we were both going back and we’d been in touch about running it together from the start. I also knew Ged (when we met at Race to the Tower) and had talked him into joining us (he was way too easily convinced!).
Ged
Chris
Prep wise, I knew I was ready after a few months of Ultras and that the distance was a given. But I remember the course being tough and my mind has jumped forward to The CCC in just 3 weeks time. I didn’t want to get injured!
Much of the day had blurred into a few memories. The three of us started together and ran 13 hours together to the finish line together. Naturally there was a hell of a lot of chat and laughter as well as silence and the low points. Over the course of 100km you pass many sites and trees (and along the SVP route also churches and bridges!!) and it becomes difficult to process them apart. So I thought, as this is the first time I’ve completed the same event twice, I’d revisit and compare the memories from last year to this….
Why I ran the course
(2017) Post RTTS I had the craving, I’d sampled something I liked and I wanted more. I wanted it soon. I started looking and I found this local(ish) 100km and didn’t hesitate to sign-up. Race day just 3 weeks away.
(2018) I enjoyed last year, I want to work towards a black t-shirt (as I’m a simpleton!) and as part of my 12 month challenge the race slotted nicely into the month of August without too much hassle or cost.
The Organisation
(2017) The SVP100 had under 100 competitors – that said, the amount of effort and input to organise such an event is still mammoth undertaking. There is no doubt a greater reliance on support and volunteers to make the event go to plan (which a number of local running teams support). The team did a great job with information, route planning, training guides and support throughout the day.
(2018) Somethings had changed, there were close to the limit of 200 entries this year. In addition, for the first time there was the SVP50. This meant that there was a single starting wave for the SVP100 and far more runners (and grouped together along the course). Despite all this, the organisation remained slick and ran perfectly. Without the volunteer’s enthusiasm and support this wouldn’t be possible!
We arrived at the start to an immediate count down to begin. This was the attempted pre-race group photo!
My Race:
(2017) There was pretty much no training for this one. I was counting on the fitness I’d built over the past few months and the fact that I’d continued running since RTTS.
(2018) Again there was no specific training, although over the year I’ve run further, fast, harder than ever before and had already completed 9 races ( 5 marathons and 4 ultras), so I was in great shape. More importantly, I’m more experienced and wiser to the challenge of ultra running.
(2017) Once again I met a fellow runner, Andy, on the train out to the starting point. Andy and I set off together, both with the intention of making a certain train we’d booked back to London later that evening.
(2018) Whilst Andy wasn’t here this time, I was already setting out to Run with Chris and Ged. More people, more fun. I’d still booked a train home, although I was more calculated this time with a 13 hour target and enough time to wash and eat afterwards!
(2017) I started out with a little niggle in my right knee felt from a run the week before. Whilst I felt comfortable starting the race, within 10 miles I could feel some discomfort as a result of the hard ground and grooves from tractor ruts (there was plenty of ankle rolling this day!).
(2018) I was ready for the terrain this year. Having been through it before I knew what to expect. The scorching summer was going to make the ground very hard and challenging, but two days of rain before the day was a blessing! Limited ankle rolling this year as I’m now more accustomed to my foot placement when running!
(2017) As the miles ticked by, Andy powered on, I was now out on my own, head down, miles to go until the next checkpoint. This race was a real learning curve for me. There were long, lonely stretches where I went almost whole check points without seeing other runners.
(2018) this time, whilst the miles ticked down, there was no loneliness. The company was ever present and besides running with Chris and Ged the course was constantly peppered with runners. Through the early single track paths, to the gradual scattering of the field, after halfway through the course, on leaving Sudbury we ran into (literally into) a large group of runners from the SVP50. This added to the vibe and atmosphere and gave us all plenty of opportunity to chat away the miles and take out mind off the run.
(2017) It dawned on me that I entered the SVP100 with preconceptions. Incorrect expectations even. I had the mind set of “I did the RTTS in 11 and a half hours, I’ll beat that time here”. Wrong. Different race, different place. No two are the same as I was about to find out. I realised that the course was flatter (I think) than the RTTS so without noticing I’d spent more time running and less time walking and recovering. I’d exerted myself more and thus tired sooner.
(2018) No preconceptions this year. I knew the race was tough. I knew the challenge it would bring. I did however learn once again that it is probably tougher than I think. It is a very very flat course with minimal elevation gain (just c 2,000ft) over the 100km. Whilst that means there are few hills to force you to walk, rest and eat, it also means you are for long stretches running and using the same muscle groups. The fatigue is more noticeable!
(2017) I also didn’t adapt as I ran. One example that came back to hurt me after the race was when I felt some discomfort in my back, something had shifted in my pack and instead of stopping and addressing it, I decided to continue to the next checkpoint to sort it out, some 7 miles later. Mistake, I was in agony for days afterwards and it was only two months later on a holiday that a friend (qualified physio) noticed the lump in my back and massaged it out!
(2018) History almost repeated itself here. Once again I felt something in my back. My hydration system was causing me hassle (sometime after the 4th Checkpoint). This was the first time I’d experienced it. Whilst I was too stubborn to address it straightaway, I did eventually sort it out before it was too late. I decided to drink all the water and remove the bladder. There was some discomfort as a result from the content of the bag but I’m not expecting any lasting pain this time round!
(2017) Later in the day I met Chris shortly after the half way checkpoint. We ended up sticking together for the rest of the course, both tiring and relying on each other to get through what was left.
(2018) Well you know what happened here! I met him before the start and crossed the line with him! Impressively Chris received his 5 Star black t-shirt this day!
(2017) Come the final check point the sun was setting and the temperature dropping. we’d slowed to a hobble and decided that we were both happy to walk the final 4 miles (it was probably faster than we were running at this point).
(2018) The final checkpoint was a little demon for me. I didn’t want a repeat of last year. I wanted to know how we went wrong and to run it in the day light. We reached the checkpoint with the sky starting to darken. An attentive Pierre refilled my bottles, received a sweaty hug and sent us off on our way. The last five miles were covered in day light, with what felt like a strong pace and desire to get to the finish. There were no wrong turns this year but I still couldn’t understand how we ended up going so wrong last year!
(2017) Eventually we reached the finish to a great welcome from the volunteers still working through the night.
(2018) The finish didn’t feel like an “eventually” thing this year but an “inevitable”. We started together, and we finished together. We came in just under 13hrs, a target I had in my mind before we set off. This couldn’t have gone any more to plan!
Start Together, Finish Together
On reflection, 2018 was more enjoyable than 2017. Not because of the faster time, the better feel of the run, but because of the company. It is so corny to say it, but it makes a difference. I enjoy running, but I’m not competing with anyone (the winner popped a sub 9hr time!!!). The achievement is the completion and the journey you take to get there. It is such an amazing thing to share with someone and I enjoyed every moment of the day spent with Chris and Ged. It was challenging, it was tough, but together we got through it. At different points in the day we all felt great and we all felt low (I hit a particular dark place just before we reached 30miles), but the camaraderie of each other dragged us out of those holes each time.
Besides those two, there were a plethora of familiar faces around the course. From Matthew (the race Director), Mark Parry (whom we ran with shortly after checkpoint two before I vanished into the distance), Steve Skinner who came bounding past with a smile on his face later in the race, Clair on the SVP50 who was fighting her own battles and wining, Pierre the bearded wonder manning the final checkpoint, Lenny who popped up in a field with his camera at hand to snap some race photos and also James Poole who I got to meet for the first time – whom casually popped out a 50km after smashing the NDW100 last week and then preceded to appear at every single checkpoint supporting through the 25+ Advent Runners out on the course! (not to mention those familiar faces of Coren, Dan and Sophie who I didn’t get to see on the day).
The memories of last year came flooding through thick and fast as I recalled the wrong turns we took, where something happened, where I met chris and so on. The corn field I remembered so vividly was missing though, nothing but a waste land of spikey bastard foliage this year. A shame. Chris was determined not to get us lost this year and expertly navigated us through the course with the occasional subtle acceptance of “off course” before we strayed too far in the wrong direction.
The one concern I took away was the amount of chaffing and discomfort I experienced in this race. My inner thighs, my waist, my nipples, my watch rubbing on my wrist and the awkwardness of my bladder in my pack all raised concerns in my mind. They were dealt with, but I don’t understand why these all caused me hassle that I’ve mostly never experienced before. A slight concern I need to think about before the CCC!
Towards the end of the race, as the comments of “not far to go2 and “Last mile” were muttered by passers-by, I knew we could stil achieve that sub 13hr. It was meaningless really and second to us all finishing together. But the determination we all pulled out to step up and rise to the challenge was incredible. Crossing the line together was the finishing touch to the achievement and personal victories!
My final thoughts, the SVP100 is tough. Very tough. You get 4 UTMB qualifying points from this race and they are very much earnt! You run endlessly, the terrain is hard and uneven (not rocky, ridgeway uneven, but dried mud uneven) and your legs take a pounding. I definitely ache more after this event than many of the others I do. Don’t under estimate the Stour Valley Path!
Back in January I opened an email that told me I’d secured a ballot place in The CCC – A mountain race that is part of the Ultra Trail World Tour (UTWT). I shit myself. I was scared. Why? because this is a race that spans 3 countries over 100km, >6,000m of elevation gain and has a strict 26 hour time limit to complete it. That, is The CCC!. Luckily by this point I’d met some amazing trail runners who were there to support me. Jana, who will also be doing the race this year after having to defer entry from last year, and Yvette, who soon volunteered to crew me. I’ve also received much support from Jack and Maggie who have both also completed this gruelling challenge.
After much persuasion, Yvette convinced me to get out to the Alps and experience the course. I’m going to write separately about some learnings from the ‘recce’, but for now I shall recap the weekend. A weekend I’d planned around covering as much of the course as possible, whilst not taking any time off work. I’m wise like that.
The plan seemed straightforward enough – Fly to Chamonix (France) after work on Friday, stay overnight before getting a bus to Courmayeur (Italy), running approximately 40km to La Fouly (Switzerland), staying overnight before running another 40km to Vallorcine (France) in time to get the last train back to Chamonix. I’d then fly back to London first thing on Monday to go straight to work. Simple.
The plan made sense to me. Yvette did all the hard work in arranging the accommodation and logistics. I set my mind to breaking down the run based on the actual route of The CCC, checking the regulations and timings of the different checkpoints I’ll experience on race day. This is when I first saw the flaws in my plan. It was going to be very tight! The weekend was about the experience and that also means enjoyment. I was now introducing an element of pressure by setting time targets we simply had to meet, (If we didn’t make it to La Fouly in time, we wouldn’t get to sleep, if we didn’t make it to Vallorcine in time, we’d be stranded and face an expensive taxi back!), these targets were based on the cut-off times to be allowed to leave the checkpoints and continue the race. I was confident it would be OK, Yvette was a little concerned, and rightly so – I’d been training for this. She hadn’t. Regardless, it was the only plan we had.
The plan: Get to CP 4 on day 1 and CP 7 on Day 2. Simple.
So here is how the plan unfolded and the adventure that we went on, one experience, from two different perspectives….
Day 1
We were supposed to get to Chamonix well before midnight. Rest up ready to tackle the run. Severe weather in Geneva though meant our flight was delayed by over two hours. There was one final transport bus from Geneva to Chamonix departing at 23:59. As we disembarked the plane at 23:45 we were already deflated and acceptance of the almighty taxi expense we were facing. Dammit. This wasn’t on my expected list of issues we’d possibly encounter. Having been to Chamonix numerous times before, Yvette rushed me to where the bus normally departs. It was 00:06. Remarkably it was still there. Our deflated emotions picked up as Yvette caught the attention of the driver as he was climbing into the cabin. Some pointless and aggressive gesturing later, he let us on to the bus. Crisis averted. Yvette to the Rescue.
Nearing 02:00 we arrived in Chamonix and made our way to the lodge, let ourselves in per the instructions left and proceeded to arrange our bags and get ready to depart. With an 08:30 bus to catch we’d be up at 07:00. Geez, we were going to be shattered. Before we knew it, the alarms were buzzing, we were bumping into each other trying to turn them off. Quick breakfast of champions (two twinkie type cakes and a coffee) and we were off. We left out bags in the storage (we’d stop here again on Sunday night also) and took with us everything we’d need to be autonomous for 2 days of running (with the expectation of a meal in Switzerland later that night!).
Yvette: Successfully passing through security with our poles packed in the hand luggage, we faced a 2-hour delay. This meant missing our 10:30pm EasyBus pick up and potentially missing the very last bus of the day heading into Chamonix. Not a great start to our trip. Once we made it through Geneva passport control, it was already after midnight, but we tried our chances and rushed to the bus station hoping to see the tacky orange rundown looking EasyBus. Wahoo…it was still there. Relief! Finally arriving at Chamonix at 1:45am, feeling very sleepy walked to Chamonix Lodge, darkness everywhere apart from the odd streetlight. Pretty certain Dai asked what that dark thing in the distance was…err it’s the silhouette of a mountain. Not sure if he was messing with me or if he was genuinely clueless and baffled (Dai: Just ignorantly naïve!). We prepared our gear and went to bed at 3am.
Our bags were heavy and stuffed full. Yvette’s more than mine as she’d borrowed a bigger bag from Jon. We arrived in Courmayuer and set about finding some bread for the journey. There was only one thing we could do to carry it – flatten it and stick it in an elastic side pocket on my Montane Jaws race pack. This was going to get sweaty! A quick pause to take in the village, a picture taken by a local and we started ‘running’. I say ‘running’, it wouldn’t be for another 5 hours that we’d do any actual running!
The start in Courmayeur
On leaving Courmayeur, the first 10km is all up hill, or up mountain rather! Starting at about 1200m, you run along the steady inclines as the roads wind up until Ermitage (1500m) before the trails begin. From here the path takes us into a forest trail and the climb continues until it opens onto the bare mountain at Suche Damon (about 5km in and 1800m up). We’d been following the GPX on the Sunnto watches, and so far, so good. Carrying on around the path though we were soon deviating from the route. Tracking back and searching around the building revealed no other routes. I was confused. Back and forth we went before eventually a local runner came down from the path. Yvette knew enough Italian to have a conversation and he led us back to the building and directed us through the outhouses to a path. How confusing! This worried me a little, the ease at which we were lost.
Yvette: First 20min of the CCC route takes you along the residential streets before you hit the forest. I don’t think there was one point where we ran this; it was a long uphill road. Then as you enter the forest you realise how steep it quickly gets.Despite having the GPX route on our watches it was still confusing knowing which way to go, and immediately we couldn’t make out whether we had go through someone’s back garden or continue along this trail path which did not look right according to our watches. I took the opportunity to ask a runner coming towards us and in my broken Spanish/Italian managed to figure out that we did have to go behind the house.
All Smiles at the start
Onward we continued, and the path required us to climb down and cross several glacier streams. I’ve never seen anything like this before. The Ice carved into the mountain, frozen solid but leaking water underneath. I soon slipped on my arse. Luckily no damage was done but a wakeup call served!
Yvette: We reached a section where you cross over rocks with water flowing through it. Not sure how, but Dai slipped and fell on his arse, not quite so gracefully, but had to laugh.
What is this?
As the climb continued, the path again opened, and we were presented with some incredible views. There was also this wooden structure from times gone by. It was a great photo opportunity, but I genuinely do not know what it is (any ideas?). Continuing on, we misread some signs and ran the wrong way. Only we hadn’t realised for quite some time and, once again, some other runners and Yvette’ Italian came to our rescue and took us back to the signs. We struggled to keep up with them running back down but did have time for a quick chat. One of them revealed he has entered The CCC 5 times and failed to complete it 5 times! He claimed it was the mental challenge the beats him. Again, worried? Yeah, a bit! Anyway, with an extra little climb added to our trek, we continued, being sure to keep to the left path and the next intersection as advised.
Don’t trust me, I’m pointing in the wrong direction!
We were now facing a climb of about 600m over 2km. It was steep! It was vast and open with a dirt trail littered with rocks and boulders, winding its way up the side of the mountain. I powered on ahead of Yvette and had my mind focused on the summit. I reached it. It wasn’t the summit. Damn. I’d actually reached Col Sapin at 2435m. This was an intersection of many paths and mine would continue up further to 2571m and Tete de la tronche. Oh well. As I continued I past several other hikers doing the TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc – an 11-day trek of the region) and I chatted with an American Mum and daughter. Whilst I waited at the top for Yvette I messed around with some Instagram stories, my own sort of video journal of the trip. It mostly involved swearing. I’d just climbed over 1200m across a 10km.
The views at the top were breath-taking. I could see down into the distance and the path we’d take. A nice steady downhill all the way to the Refuge where the first checkpoint would be. The weather was suddenly questionable, but the waterproofs stayed in the bag. Finally, after 4 hours we could run.
Yvette: On track, we then came to the first beastly climb, Tete de la Tronche (2584m), winding up, a slow hike to the top, with my head down and not focusing on where Dai was (he was like a little tiny black dot in the distance getting further away from me, damn him!) finally made it. As the saying goes, ‘the best view comes after the hardest climbs’ and it certainly didn’t disappoint. A few videos and selfies (including a peeing with a view pic in the middle of the mountains, standard) we could see the weather starting to change, spitting rain it was time to move and head to Bertone. What was really cool was seeing where the trail path continued from Tete de la Tronche. You could trace it with your finger right across the mountain until it disappeared.
Finally freedom to run.
We hit the Refuge Bertone (1970m) shortly after and it was full of people on their TMB treks. We refuelled on the soggy (sweaty!) bread (on which I nearly choked inhaling it!) and set off again. On to the second Refuge on our path. We left after nearly 5 hours which was pretty much bang on my target for this weekend. Not bad considering we’d stopped a few times and been lost twice! As we ran we soon started passing people we’d spoken too at Bertone. There was some cool stone structure someone had built, and we passed the mum and daughter again coming back from another path that they would have taken at Col Sapin.
Some Well deserved soggy bread
Stones!
To our left were more incredible scenes of the mountains and the valley as we ran along the path Strada Del Villair. Eventually a short uphill climb took us to what I called “The Pub” – Refuge Bonatti (2025m). More refuelling and a moment to compose ourselves. We filled our water from the water fountain. It was so cold and refreshing. It was and is the best water I’ve ever had. I can’t wait to have more of this when I go back. Next on our list was Arounouz (Arnuova di Mezzo, 26km done and 2000m). Along the way we passed several derelict buildings and many river streams to cross. A few were fortunate to have wooden bridges over the. The route was still fairly flat but single track and we encountered a lot of people we needed to pass. Of all the people though, we weren’t expecting to see 3 young boys. They asked us the time (it was nearing 6pm) and we were a little concerned that they were heading in the opposite direction to us and were dressed in nothing but shorts and cotton shirts.
Amazing views
“The Pub” (Refuge Bonatti)
Views over to Aiguille de ‘l’Eveque
Amazing views
Stones!
“The Pub” (Refuge Bonatti)
Arnuova Di Mezzo wasn’t open. We sensed now would be a good time to put some layers on. It was getting very windy and overcast. Out came my bum and willy on the mountain as I squeezed into my Skins leggings. Just as we were layering it started raining, Phew. Well played. I was pleased with myself. As we were doing so, the 3 young boys reappeared, again asking the time. We questioned them. They were local. We followed them down the path, winding down to Arnuova Desot (1780m) which is where the 3rd checkpoint will be on the CCC. At the bottom there was a party. Two drunk men had starting the climb looking for the kids. We assured them they were just behind us and they were grateful. The locals sure are relaxed about the mountain! With the Rock tunes blasting, Yvette did a little trail dance and we charged our watches. Next up was the climb to Grand Col Ferret (2537m) and the crossing to Switzerland!
Layering Up!
Yvette: The route between CP1 – CP3 is so runnable you can make up for lost time. The weather changed quickly, temperature dropped and started to rain. Dai with his weatherman predictions was right to make the call on chucking some extra layers on and wearing waterproofs. Out of the blue we came across 3 kids, they weren’t wearing any sort of hiking gear and what was stranger, they were alone. No sign of parents or some older, responsible looking adult. They were dressed up in smart shirts and fashion trainers. As we made our way down, we could hear music, then 2 men appeared on the trails, dressed in suits, both quite drunk and smoking cigars. It was obvious they were looking for the 3 boys. There was some kind of big party, sounded like they were playing Queen’s Greatest Hits album. Had a bit of a dance as we walked by, banging out some air guitar moves, Dai looking at me like I’m crazy.
Can’t argue with that!
The beginning of the climb was another open and steep trek. The sound of cow bells rang strong and we saw a field(?) full of cows and bulls which we’d have to walk through. There was a farmer at the top sitting chatting on his phone. As we walked and joked about the smell of shit, we saw a pool of manure, and as we passed it stared to gush with fresh shit from the buildings. lovely. The smell really was horrific. Around the building we went and to a steeper climb that was very exposed. Then we stopped to layer again as it was starting to rain. Carrying on up we took the decision to stop again and put every layer that we could, up ahead there were dark clouds forming and within seconds we could see nothing. very limited visibility to just metres ahead of us. We powered on. Yvette was focusing on the ‘plinth’ she’d read about at the summit. I arrived first. It was very cold and very windy up top. We stayed a very short time, long enough for a few photos and then we were on the move.
Yvette: Our next big bastard of a climb lay ahead of us, 754m climb with 2537m total elevation and approx. 32km into the CCC route. This would also be the point in which we’d cross the border onto the Swiss side. Clouds were rolling in fast and visibility pretty much zero, Dai who was always ahead of me by about 5 minutes or so disappeared into the mist. It was kind of spooky. All I could see was the path in front of me for a few meters, with no idea where it was leading to and how much further I had to climb until I reached the summit of Grande Col Ferret or where he had wondered off to. I just kept thinking, surely that bloody signpost on a rock that I’d seen on Google images and blogs is around here somewhere. There it is, made it!! Damn I wanted to hug that rock. I bowed to it and rested on it. It felt great knowing we smashed the 2 biggest climbs in 1 day. Hugging and smiling, and a quick selfie to remember the moment we didn’t delay and carried on. Shame about the clouds as we missed out on the panoramic views from the top.
All the layers
Grand Col Ferret 2537m
We knew it was downhill from here for about 10k towards La Fouly. The freedom to run was immense. Our bags were so light at this point as we were wearing everything. It was a great feeling. We were full of energy as we’d not run much yet and had great fun running the trails. We were the only people on this section. It was liberating. All around us the views were amazing as the mountains were scattered with white snow and glaciers punctuating the green slopes. As we got lower we winded down and through some fields and saw some villages in the distance with street lights flickering through the trees. We felt close. Maybe 15-20 mins away. It was starting to rain and we were thinking of food and sleep. Then we hit our first real obstacle. A cow in the path. We tried unsuccessfully to move them along. Nothing happened. A slow walk. More cows. Then a bull step forward. Fuck. 38km in and still 2000m, up we didn’t know what to do. It was as if the cow had told the bull we’d done something. The evil stare was very intimidating. He wouldn’t move. Yvette wasn’t comfortable. We checked the map. The path would continue and then U-turn around the cows and the buildings. So, we took the dodgy decision to leave the path and cut the corner. Downhill through vegetation. It was very risky, but slowly we successfully descended and re-joined the path.
Cows in the way!
Yvette: Trying to pick up some pace on the downhill, we had 3miles to go, when we come to a sudden halt and saw a cow on the trail path. A big cow! Literally blocking it. Munching away on grass, it turned its head to look at us and then continued munching away totally ignoring us. We were shooing it, waving arms around to move it on and I was clapping. Nothing. What a stubborn cow. I kept telling Dai not to go too close, he was as stubborn as the cow not listening to me. You just don’t know how these animals would react. For some reason I was a little scared, so I was looking around to find another way to cut across. Thankfully the cow slowly plodded down the path, and as it moved off the path we then noticed this black bull further down blocking it. Fs!!! It had sharp horns and just stared at us. Dai was determined to walk towards it but I wasn’t chancing it. Plus, I realised I had a bright red Salomon vest pack on. Bulls charge when they see red right!!? I mean I was a target to them. Just like the running of the bulls/bullfighting, they see bright red/pink moving around and they practically blow smoke out of their nostrils ready to charge. I did not fancy being chased by a bull, not that I would have had anywhere to run to but uphill on dead legs. Dai said that was a myth and that it wouldn’t happen. Whatever! We couldn’t stay there all day, we were wasting time, and so I made the call to cut through an overgrown grassy section going down a steep hill. I think, this the only point in our trip where we had a disagreement as he warned me not to go down there, it was too risky. I didn’t listen (ok, we’re both stubborn) and with my poles, poked the ground to see where it was stable and made my way down. The path was looping around to the right anyway, so it I would reach the same path eventually. I left Dai behind me, and he would either follow me or somehow negotiate with the bull and get through. He decided to follow me. Ha-ha.
Down into a forest we ran, our energy levels drained. We were soaked through from the vegetation and continuous rain. Darkness was setting in. We thought we were close so didn’t get our torches out. It took longer than expected though for us to reach La Fouly. As we continued further we went off the path and emerged onto the main road. Checking where we were looking for the accommodation. It must be close. Sign spotted. It was done. Nearly 10pm and very dark. We walked up the hill (dammit) and found the hotel. It was all closed. A message to Yvette to “let ourselves in”. A room with no key. Shared showers. No towels. Fuck that’s annoying, a shower was second on our “most wanted” list after food.
We headed straight out for food. Everywhere was closed (it was 22:30 in a very small village after all). The one open bar agreed to sort us out with something. They offered us some cold cuts. I was very happy with that. We ordered one each along with a pint of coke. When it turned up, it was massive! The most packed cold cut plate ever with fruit, nuts and cheese. It was epic! Yvette was struggling to eat but I couldn’t stop. We stumbled back to the hotel, had a shower (and a pat dry!) and went to bed. It was gone midnight, we’d be starting it all again in the morning. We wanted to leave by 8am….
Yvette: Out of the mountains and onto the road we reached Maja Joie hotel at 10pm, pretty dark. They had left a sign on the door we managed to figure out that we could go straight to our room, there was no key. Weird. Dumped our vest packs, didn’t bother to shower and went straight out to find anything that was open. We followed the sounds of people laughing and music playing. A place called Auberge des Glaciers. Everyone was getting on it, and we turned up looking sweaty, tired, dirty, smelly, and dazed. Annoyingly the kitchen had shut, and despite begging he said there was nothing he could do. Our eyes moved towards the crisps and nuts hanging behind the bar, if there was nothing else available, we had a backup plan at least. I would just opt for every crisp flavour and a pint of coke for dinner. He mentioned another place further up the road, somehow my legs moved quicker than my brain and I sprinted to this other restaurant. Ergh damn, kitchen closed. Rushed back to Auberge des Glaciers, ready to buy every crisp packet they owned, the man could see how hungry and desperate we were to eat. Knowing we had run 41km from Courmayeur, he felt sorry for us and said he could serve us cold meats and bread. Perfect!!! How many platters he asked….’we’ll take two’!!!
That pint of coke tasted so fucking good! I’ve been hearing how coke is the way forward for post long runs, or even flat coke in the last stages of an ultra-race. Something about the sugar, caffeine and carbs that reenergises your body with a boost and settles the stomach. I don’t drink fizzy drinks at all but if this is part of recovery and feeling human again, I’ll try it. The platters came out; yep it was obviously a sharing dish looking at the size of it. I took one bite of bread and I swear it took me 5-10min to chew on it before I could swallow. I had no saliva to break it down, I felt slightly nauseous. I was hungry, my body was screaming for food, but I just couldn’t eat it. I was watching Dai and he was demolishing that platter. He’d finished it while I was still on the same piece of bread!
Day 2
07:00, the alarms are ringing. It’s time to get up and go. First stop, the breakfast bar. We head down stairs to the packed dining area where there is a table laid out with Yvette’s name. We chat to the Hotel staff and sort all the admin before tucking into another breakfast of champions. We have bread. Dry bread. Toasted bread. Just bread. But lots of coffee too. As all the other hikers gear up and head out we are lagging behind, it’s 08:30 before we make our escape. Ahead of the plan, behind the intention. But we are out.
Smiling Again
Hello Switzerland!
The first 10km of the day is a nice and steady run. After leaving the road in La Fouly we hit a path along river that was rocky, but downhill. It was a busy section as we caught up with all the morning hikers setting off on their journeys. On Occasion we needed to pass several large groups, everyone was in good spirit though. We were fresh and smiley, the rest had worked wonders and the crisp morning air was a delight to breathe. I was conscious of the terrain. Whilst flat and downhill, the rocky paths were a slight concern, it could well be that I might be running this section in the dark next time. That could be hazardous. I was recalculating my ability to get this section covered before the sun goes down next time!
Swiss Villages like Praz De Fort were beautiful to run through
About 7km into the run the path took a sharp turn and opened into a beautiful elevated path lined with trees either side. It was like a tunnel of nature. It felt endless as we ran through, the morning light piercing through the gaps in the leaves. As we came out the other side we ran through the Swiss villages of Praz De Fort, Los Araches and Issert. These villages were quaint with wooden cabins, lush gardens and quirky decorations (Gnome village!). After running through nature for so long it was a weird sensation to be on the road and weaving through picturesque man-made structures. The villages were small and soon came to an end, as did the running. It was time to begin the first of 3 climbs this day, we were re-entering the Forrest and the Sentier Des Champignons (~1480m) that would lead to Champex-Lac.
I Loved this section!
The trail is littered with wooden carvings, some representing creatures of the forest, some were mythical. All were unique and special. The path was undulating and occasionally we could run, skipping and jumping the tree roots as we went. We interchanged with a group of other runners, joking occasionally as we passed. Laughing as the group stopped one of their runners from eating a bunch of berries she’d picked from a tree!
Creatures of the Forest
Yvette: 9am start and 14km to the next destination, CP5 Champex-Lac. Perfect flat trails to start off with, easy on the legs, beautiful section through the woods, took us through a quiet village in Praz De Fort, charming wooden cabins. Then as you arrive to Issert, the 3rd out the 6 climbs begins. The route takes you through a steep forest path; this is when you see wooden carved sculptures every few meters, quite amusing. I think I stopped paying attention to it while Dai made the effort to take photos. I just wanted to reach the top. I think by this point, I was getting frustrated with the running vest pack. It was weighing me down (I may have carried more than I needed to) and starting to rub my skin. No matter how much I tightened the straps it would become lose and bounce too much. My mood started to drop a bit.
We briefly met the runners again as we arrived at the bottom of Champex-Lac and said our goodbyes. As we entered the town, we saw the lake – Lac De Champex – we’d heard so much about. It was beautiful. We stopped briefly to admire the scene and soon pushed on after I challenged our timings. We had a long day ahead and a tight time frame to make the bus! It is true that I was pushing Yvette. She hadn’t enjoyed the climb and I was conscious it would be difficult if the negative thoughts consumed her focus so early on. She’s so strong and led us off again, around the lake and through the town, where a local event/festival was taking place. There was music and food and all sorts of entertainment. We were offered what looked like Vodka shots which we were happy to decline!
A different Kind of View!
Yvette: We reached Champex-Lac (first of the assisted checkpoints) and I remember from a blog I read that you would run beside this beautiful lake. That it was. Stopped for a moment, refuelled beside some Harley Davidson bikers. The town was buzzing, some festival event with market stalls and such a nice vibe I could have chilled here for a bit. Dai would always check up on me, and I guess he was also aware that I had never run this far before and I think he noticed in my eyes and the expression on my face that I was slightly off. It wasn’t so much my feet or legs, thankfully. Dai would reassure me, would offer to swap vests, hug me and give me a bit of encouragement. He didn’t have to tell me, but I knew what he was thinking and trying to say. “Snap out of it, we need to stick to the plan and keep going. There is no way out now. We have a train to catch so work those little legs”. He was pushing but I needed that push.
We were presented with a short downhill along some wide trails for a brief rest before the start of the second climb. The ground was again rocky, and we took a moment to stop and refuel (I was expecting the climb imminently, but we still had some way to go). And then it begun. in the peak of midday, the sun shining high, the heavy sweats of the power hike would take over as we made our way up to Refuge Bovine at 1987m…
The Climb to Bovine…
was probably the most technical
The climb started off on a wide paved road and we passed many hikers in both directions. Then the incline started. Some incredible views climbing a gravel path. We passed a lot of people. Behind us the views were vast, mountains and glaciers as far as we could see. As the path turned and the incline increased we paused to absorb the views. Then, far away in the distance we saw hikers climbing. They were a looooong way up. It looked like it would take an age to reach where they were. We continued with our power hike, crossing several streams flowing down the mountain side (at one point a wide section of the path was submerged) and were momentarily disheartened as a runner ran past (fair play, he was nailing this!). We continued climbing, stopping every few turns to catch our breath and swear. Eventually we reached that point where we were the ‘people high in the distance’, which surprisingly didn’t take us as long as I thought it would.
We came from down below my right shoulder!
The path opened into more, lush green vegetation and fields as we continued upward. The sound of cowbells ringing in the distance grew ever so slightly louder, until we passed a small wooden cow shack. Then you could really hear the cow bells. After last night’s encounter I was slightly worried and also for Yvette, she was a little way behind me. As I reached the top I could see a larger building, packed with hikers, a restaurant. Besides the hikers, were bulls. tens of them, everywhere, amongst the people. This was daunting. I slowly walked passed as they eyed me up. They were very tame though, most just sitting there, enjoying the sun. I went and sat down in the tabled area to await Yvette (whom I almost missed as she appeared so quickly!). We spent a good 15 minutes eating, drinking (more fresh, cold water!) and admiring the bulls. We then set off again, threading between the bulls and climbing what remained of the path to the top, where the next downhill section would begin. We were ready to run again!
Yvette: There was refuge called Alpage de Bovine, surrounded by cows. These ones had a ginger mullet, I stood next to one and only then realised the size of these bells hanging from their necks!! They were like 5kg kettlebells. As we took a break, this cow walks over towards me, gets a little too close to the fence, curious, almost touching me. I jumped up to move away and said to Dai “Seeeee it’s the red vest’”. He rolled his eyes at me.
No longer afraid of the bulls
What a hair cut!
The run down was very technical. There were a load of people on the path and large rocks and routes to navigate. It was an instant quad burner and the legs were on fire, but as with the previous day and morning, the freedom to run after the power hiking was a much-welcomed relief. By now I was appreciating the need to run when the opportunity presented itself. If I’m to make the cut-offs during the CCC I’ll need to make the time up on the downhills and flats!
I waited at the bottom, we were just outside of Trient (1285m). The walking signs indicated 30mins, so it shouldn’t take us long. We used the moment here where we had phone signal to make some arrangements and estimates for our evening arrival, and for me to film and load more stories to the ‘Gram! Before long we arrived at a campsite and took the opportunity to again refuel, drink the always present cold water and use the facilities on site. There was one mountain left to climb (and about 10km to go). It looked the steepest of them all, a right fucking bitch to overcome…
up there we go
What a tree
The climb certainly felt like the steepest climb. We only saw one person all the way to the top (He powered past, coming out of nowhere with an epic power hike!). Initially I thought the route was taking us straight up the mountain. Maybe I was delusional and imagining the paths ahead, but thankfully there were switch backs leading up and up. There was this a amazing tree which caught my attention, initially I noticed the criss-cross texture before realising there were no branches. It was solid and tall and stood out amongst the others. Looking back, it formed an exception view with the mountains in the backdrop. I waited for Yvette, making sure she saw this tree!
Up I continued. It wasn’t walking or hiking really. It was more an endless session of deep lunging. This was definitely the steepest of the climbs. I was ready for the summit before we’d barely begun. Up ahead, straining my neck I saw some mountain bikers. They were heading down. I understood the word “cinq”, the lead biker was indicating there were 5 more to come. Ok Ok, I understood his hand gesture, not the language.
The final climb came with exceptional views!
The summit (Catogne, 2050m) never felt like appearing. Eventually though the path flattened and to my right were sensational views. I carried on a little and tested the path, it was beginning to descend. So I tracked back and intended to enjoy the views and recharge my watch and wait for Yvette. I’d barely sat down before she arrived. She was emotional, we rested and absorbed everything our eyes could see (including Barage d’Emosson in the distance which was a real confusion for the eyes, to see a dam so high and so far away). The joy of knowing we were one downhill and less than 10km from the end was sensational. So onward we went, one more time, all downhill.
A moment to enjoy the views
A moment to relax!
Yvette: This was our final climb of the recce route; I can’t actually tell you if this was harder than the other climbs. I lost sight of Dai…again. I kept looking up wondering if I was close to the top, nope…stop looking up…keep going. This was the pattern throughout the route; now and again you would be teased into thinking that the highest point was so close but then it would continue winding further up. Legs were dangling a bit! I’m sure at one point I hallucinated, but I looked up and saw a dark shadow of a person for a few seconds and then suddenly disappeared. I’m sure it was Dai having one final look down to see if I was close.
I then found Dai perched on the edge of a rock. That was actually quite a memorable moment to capture. Your eyes are usually fixed to the ground as you run, rarely getting a moment to look up and admire your surroundings. That was one thing we took the time to do, we made sure to stop and take photos and just embrace the unbelievable views. It’s the only chance Dai had to appreciate the route he’ll be racing. Plus from La Fouly to Chamonix he will be running this section in the dark and by the time he gets to Chamonix it’ll be sunrise. We had 10min to sit together and look around us. I think I had another cry in front of him. With 6km to go until we arrived at Vallorcine, it was all downhill to the end.
Momentarily I had a mild (internal) panic as I saw a path going up. It suddenly felt like we hadn’t submitted, but thankfully as we neared a sign we were directed away from the peak, we had indeed reached the highest point (circa 2070m) on this section and would be continuing down. Ahead of us, all around we could see beautiful paths weaved into the mountains. We were energised, light footed and excited. We bounded down and before long hit a section of wider gravel switchbacks. They weren’t too rocky, but they sure were hard underfoot!
The path back down to Vallorcine
Another sign saw us eventually take a step off the path, we were entering Then a turn into the green forest – Foret Verte. The ground was softer here. But no easier to run as it was so uneven. Then, out of nowhere a sense was triggered, one that felt forgotten on this run, one that had become a repetition of wind, cowbells and the thumping of our feet hitting the ground, we heard a sound. A hoot hoot. A train. A fucking Train. Yes. We were close. Very close. We were so far ahead of schedule, we’d be home before we knew it now.
The Green Forest
We came to the end of our journey soon after, a bridge symbolised our finish as we’d walk from here across the road and to the station. Time for a hug, hi-five and a quick trail dance. We were done. We were well ahead of last train but unsure as to how frequent they might be. We had just mussed on of course. it was 17:59 as we reached the station and Yvette saw the lights go out inside the ticket room. She kept knocking the window until answered. The kind lady advised the next train was due in any minute and we could buy tickets onboard. Result. We walked around to the platform and like perfect harmony the train arrived. We were so happy.
Yvette: We did it! Dai did his celebratory trail dance. We completed 83km of the CCC route just before 6pm, and we were ahead of schedule by approx. 1hr 30, according to the last train. Day 1 – 41.5km, took us 12hrs and Day 2 – 41.5km, took us 9.5hrs. Vallorcine is the final assisted checkpoint and with 19km remaining, we’d be reunited again at Chamonix where he’ll cross that finish line. There was a train arriving as soon as we got to the station, perfect timing! Back to Chamonix.
Finish with a Trail Dance
It was now back to Chamonix, time to check in, collect our bags again, go out get some food and meet with Jana, Maggie and Ali who’d been out running some of the GTR route. As we reached the hotel, we were super excited to find our room had a bath. So of course, a bath was had!
Within the hour we were clean and heading back out. First stop, food (we went to a Pizza restaurant and saw Max, another friend of Yvette’s) and then a stop at “the Pub” to collect a present for Jana. Finally, half an hour later than we agreed, we arrived at the hotel to meet the others. We shared stories of our journeys. Received advice from Maggie and feminised about her race last year before accepting it was time to leave. It was nearly midnight and we had a wakeup call for 03:30 to make the flight back to London.
6 Hours later and I’m at my desk in work, many of my colleagues still not in. But I’m smiling, exhausted, but smiling. Acknowledging to myself that this is just the beginning of an epic story!
I can’t thank Yvette enough for this trip. Coaxing me out to the Alps and making me realise I needed this, the arrangements, the positivity and fearlessness of attempting such an adventure and not least the support. Ever since I found out I’m running the CCC she has had my back. I know I’m in safe hands for next month!
It’s 5am on a Saturday. For fuck sake. Why. A world record attempt, that’s why. I go through the usual pre-morning run routine. I snooze. I shuffle to the kitchen. I get the porridge on the go and neck some coffee back. Half an hour later I’m on my way. It’s the burger run today and we’ve coincided it with running a leg of the The I Move London Relay – which is an Official Guinness World Record attempt for the longest not-stop running relay. Run in 10K and 5K loops, in central London, repeated for 30 days and 30 nights and covering 4,000 miles by 2,500 runners. 1 Baton to rule them all.
At London Bridge I meet a few of the other pacers and we make our way to Potters Field and the relay base camp. We check in, drop our bags, don our I Move Relay t shirts and the masses start to appear. We have about 30 runners today. Awesome. The plan is to pop the 10km leg of the relay before continuing as per usual burger run style, this time to honest burger in Greenwich. As we are joking and waiting, the relay runner from the preceding leg rocks up with Rod (the baton). It’s an awful reception he’s 20mins ahead of schedule, we aren’t all here yet. We barely notice him arrive. I feel bad. Oh well. Sorry stranger!
Dana warms us up, Tommy gives us a prep talk, it’s time to go! We’ve discussed running as a group. It’s unusual for us as we accommodate several pace groups. But this is different. It’s a social relay party! Immediately this goes to shit as the faster runners leg it into the morning. It’s so hard to control and contain a wide varying set of abilities. That said, the 10k route (from potters field to Westminster along the South Bank before taking the North Bank back to tower bridge) is a hoot. Loads of pictures and videos and posing with the baton (don’t drop it!) and we do manage to regroup occasionally. Tomorrow is the Ride London event and many roads are already closed as part of the weekend’s activities. This is a London Runner’s dream. It’s surreal to pound the streets freely and safely and without all the pollution!
The 90s tunes have been pumping and, as we come off tower bridge for the final straight back to base camp, we sing and dance to Europe’s Final Count Down. We done it (We did it?) Collectively we’ve brought Rod home and each and every runner. After handing the baton to the stage 623 runners We are treated to some Trek bars and some Fitwater (which is very funky and not particularly nice!).
It’s time to prep for the next 10km. A few more runners have joined us for the next 10km (and a few more had to leave us). As the burger run grows in strength we’ve gone down the T-shirt route. Pacers now have t shirts and runners can buy some too. We kit up. Pose for more photos and head off.
I’m taking the 9:30-10min mile group today. We loop back over London Bridge and along the Thames path on the north bank. It’s a scenic route of part of London I always find is less frequented (by me at least) with some great views across the river. The finale of the route sees us cross from the Isle of Dogs to Greenwich using the Victoria foot tunnel. This is always good fun.
Emerging the other side we reform with the earlier pace group and head to the burger joint. It’s earlier than usual but burgers and meat are had. A group of us stuck around for a beverage in Greenwich where the smutty laughter continued.
If you’d like to know more about the London burger run, what we do, where and when and if you’d like to join then get in touch with me or @ldnburgerrun on Instagram. It’s an open group for any and everyone of all abilities. We just want to have fun and company and it’s a great way to take your mind off running on longer runs!
6 months have passed. 6 whole months already! It feels like yesterday I first sat down with Daryl and started planning what runs I’d do in 2018. It was all pretty shoddy that first attempt, but shortly afterwards my “12 month challenge” was born, although I can’t remember why I decided to do this.
I thought I’d stop for a moment (not literally though, the running continues) and look back on the first half of the year. Take a look at what the challenge has become, what I’ve achieved, what I’ve learnt (and still haven’t learnt) and generally take stock of what’s to come in the next half of the year…. plus it will save me in 6 months time when I try to remember everything that has gone on and recollect all the adventures and memories!
2018 in a plan
Firstly the task itself. 12 marathons in 12 months, or at least that is what it started as. I soon realised that road marathons didn’t excite me as much as I thought. As the year got underway I was introduced to trail running and started to do this more and more. I was also greedy, as I’d started sampling the Ultras and being tempted by some of those more exotic races and struggling to say no to some others suggested. In some cases I couldn’t choose between races in the same month, so booked them all. As such I’ve ended up with a year that features 6 marathons and 9 Ultras. It kind of grew out of hand.
So what has been run already? 5 out of 6 of those marathons – Muscat, Malta, Limassol, Brighton and Helsinki. It all kicked off in Oman with an incredible trip (which I still mean to document someday) and a reunion with Angela and Stephane from Myanmar in 2016. I PB’d big time, first in Oman and then in Malta before spectacularly blowing up in Limassol in March. More to come on that later… April saw me run with Alex and embrace the atmosphere of Brighton and I ran Helsinki care-free.
I’ve also now completed a third of the ultras with the challenges of Brecon Beacons Ultra Trail, Race to the Tower and Race to the King all overcome. The Brecon Beacons ultra was particularly grueling and my first real taste of running in the mountains. It’s fair to say I enjoyed it and will need to get used to it as there are more mountains to come in the next half of the year! The Race to the Tower and Race to the King saw me complete the Threshold Trail series and as per race to the Stones last year they were incredibly well organised and a lot of fun.
What have been my highlights so far? let’s break these down…
The people – I could go on and on about a lot of people here, those I know closely, those I’ve come to know through Instagram, my family and strangers encountered along the way. But a call out to the old friends reunited through running – Angela and Stephane who I had the company with for a few days out in Oman, and Sandra whom I’d not seen for nearly a decade until Helsinki! Running brings you back together. A shout out to the new friends made on the way, and there are many of them, but Ged – 33 miles shared on the Cotswolds Way…what a great way to meet and get to know someone. And the squad, the crew, the gang that were there when I needed them most. In the darkness of my DNF in Cyrpus Daryl, Brigita, Yvette and Barnadas were there for me. I’ll forever be thankful.
Heros! (and of course Brigi behind the camera!)
Exploring the UK – I’ve seen very little of the UK in truth. I’ve probably seen more of it in the past 6 months than I have in the 33 years preceding them! It’s no surprise to say you cover a lot of ground when running Ultras. Through a few different races (and general runs) I’ve now spent a fair amount of time down on the South Downs and South East Coast. Race to the King saw me cover a lot of the Cotswolds and at the Brecon Beacons Ultra trail I covered a few laps of, yeah, Brecon! Each place is so different. Each has its own uniqueness and tranquility. I’m looking forward to exploring more. Maybe a venture North should come next?
Travel experiences like Oman
Travelling – It’s always going to sound like a dating app cliche, but I love to travel. I’ve been fortunate to visit nearly 50 different countries and have made some amazing memories along the way. Combining this passion with running has been a great experience. Seeing such amazing cultural differences (such as Oman) and landscapes has been a blessing. Oman, Malta, Cyprus and Finland have all been sampled so far.
The lack of training – I don’t “train” anymore. I kid you not. I just run. Is that weird? I’m now in (and have been for a few months) a perpetual state of marathon fitness. Sounds awesome doesn’t it! It’s odd in that its become such a normality that my weekly mileage feels small (somewhere in the 30-40 miles) but its more than enough. I should clarify that, when I say I don’t train, I do actually workout and put effort in (I still go to the Never Stop London Tuesday training sessions and have started going to the Wild Trail Running Monday night sessions for example). What I mean is that I don’t have, nor follow, a routine or plan. There is no tempo session, no hill session, no speed work, no easy run, no long run, no fartlek nor intervals. Every run is just a run. No set mileage, just time on my feet. Each run will vary in distance it is true, but no run has a goal or an aim other than being a run. And most surprisingly of all, this works for me. I’m getting fitter and stronger from ‘just running’. What I particularly like is the freedom it gives me, there is no pressure to miss out because a run doesn’t fit into my ‘plan’ or schedule.
The regular experiences – Through others and the Internet I have become involved in several groups. There’s the Cool Cats – A collective of like minded runners of all sorts organised through Facebook and the amazing Jana. The Never Stop London group – Run by The North Face and through Jack. The Wild Trail Runners headed up by the enigmatic Maggie and the London Burger Runs put on by Tommy ‘Texas T-Dog’. Yeah that’s not his name but whatever. Whenever I can I will go to these runs and events put on by these guys. There are a lot of great people involved and I’m guaranteed to have a smile on my face running/working out with them.
The support – Closely linked to the people, I’m constantly amazed by the support and advice I constantly receive. Through the many many people I’m in contact with on Instagram to those I’ve been fortunate to meet and become friends with. There is support everywhere. Nowhere more have I received such support as from Daryl, Jana, Yvette (and her generosity also!), Jack, Alex, Maggie, Jon (and many more, the list really does go on). These guys have followed my every move, supported and advised, encouraged and challenged me and continue to push me forward. Then there is the huge community of supporters who turn out to volunteer or cheer participants at events, you are amazing!
And what hasn’t been so high? Well, the low points exist too…
The DNF – this was always going to feature. Blowing up in Limassol was an experience I never want to have again. Not so much the DNF, but the effects it has on the mind. Looking back I’m fortunate. I came out the other side without a single scratch nor lasting damage. Others aren’t so lucky. It is however on my mind….
The Fear of injury – With so many races, each one exciting and challenging, I’m afraid. I’m afraid of something happening (like an injury) that will prevent me from getting to the starting line. That will be the worst. I can deal with what happens on the day, but not getting the chance to attempt something, that will mess with me….Every little niggle I feel is magnified and feels like a big deal.
Running is hard!
The Enjoyment (or often lack of) – Running is hard. Don’t let anyone ever tell you otherwise. No matter the distance, your ability or objectives, running is tough. Even on those glorious days in spectacular surroundings it is hard and requires physical and mental strength. When I head out into a marathon or ultra, nothing is certain. Don’t get me wrong, I’m confident and go into races prepared, but that doesn’t mean they are easy or a sure thing. Anything can happen. But what doesn’t help is putting pressure on yourself. I’ve done this a few times now. I chase the times. That changes how you run. It saps the enjoyment out of a run. When you are running somewhere new, somewhere special, the last thing you need to be doing is staring at your watch all the time. This does mean there have been runs I’ve not enjoyed as much as I should. Which is a shame.
The psychological effect – This one I’ll struggle to explain. But its the lasting impact of the DNF, combined with the fear. I realised recently when I unintentionally muttered the words “I’m afraid of being afraid”. A dawning moment. In particular the effect I’m feeling is related to not getting a sub 3hr marathon time in Cyprus. No shame in failing. I’m fine with that. But, now I’m afraid of trying again. What if it happens again? what if I’m not so fortunate next time around. What if I can never hit sub 3? Can I be bothered to train hard for it? Lot’s of ifs and buts, all of which are meaningless. What does running a set distance 3 minutes faster award me? Absolutely bugger all is what. I get to say I’m a sub 3 hour marathoner. It’s meaningless. But I’ll dwell on it for some time to come I’m sure.
The Planning – I’ve booked so many races that I can’t think of them. I need to look at what is coming up immediately. I need to prepare, I need to plan and I need to focus. At best I can look 3 races into the future perhaps. But even this is getting harder as the weeks in between are packed full of other fun runs I’ve planned. As such I don’t give each run the attention it deserves nor do I respect them as I should. I’ve the CCC quickly approaching (it’s now number 3 on my races coming up), but before then I first have to navigate 2 x 100km trail runs, 3 x runs I’m pacing/leading, a trip to Chamonix for some mountain training (which I think needs to involve a serious amount of elevation over 2 runs and a night run in two days) and hopefully a trip up to Northumberland. One race at a time, everything blurs into one. It’s surprisingly stressful.
The fear – again, more fear, and it probably isn’t the last I’ll say on this topic. I’ve mentioned being ‘afraid of being afraid’ and I’ve mentioned the training trip to Chamonix. These are related. Everyone rightly tells me to go to Chamonix and get some mountain running before the CCC. In truth, I’ve delayed it so long because I’m afraid. I know it will be tough, but I’m scared it will be so tough that I dwell on it too much. As opposed to realising when I’m out there doing the CCC and knowing my stubbornness will just drag me through it. Regardless, I’m going. I’ll have to deal with it now. Embrace the fear!
This is turning out to be a long old post….So what have I learnt over the past 6 months (I’ve re-written this after realising the “what I haven’t learnt” is the flip side to each!)?
Run with a smile!
I’m not to bad at this running malarkey. I’m getting faster and stronger and for the most part I run with a smile on my face. What this means though is that I am constantly looking for that next challenge. More isn’t always a good thing.
There is inspiration everywhere. Every person I meet on the trail has a story. Everyone has their experiences. There ambitions and goals. It’s so good to share these with people and be inspired by their journeys.
I’m a stubborn bastard. When it hurts I carry on. When I need to do something, I do it. I’ve always been this way only it has become blatantly clear to me through running that this is how I work. Pros and Cons I suppose. The downside of the stubbornness… Well, it means I’m ignorant. I don’t listen to my body. I sometimes push myself too much and risk things that are unnecessary.
I’m also a greedy bastard. I love a freebie. I love a good time on a run. If I like something I want more of it. Whether its more running, more flat coke or whatever. I am prone to over indulging. This couldn’t have been more evident than at the RTTK where I’d stashed a shoe box worth of food into my bag which I had to run with for the last 20 miles. Greedy Bastard!
I don’t do things correctly. I still don’t stretch or foam roll enough. I don’t get proper sleep. I don’t rest. Event the rest days I have tend to involve a couple of hours of cycling as part of my commute. My nutrition, hah, its all over the place.
Race tactics. I sometimes have them. Sometimes don’t and don’t always stick to them. I don’t know what to do, if anything, about this? I’m trying to adopt the ‘run how it feels’ approach, this requires a lot of listening to the body!
The Runner’s ‘Highs’ but also the runner’s ‘Lows’. Certainly a new experience I’ve come to acknowledge. We all so easily get the buzz from completing a challenge and finishing a race. The Adrenaline is pumping and the sense of achievement can be all encompassing. But when it wears off (and I’m afraid to say it will), the feeling you are left with can make you swing completely the other way. In the days following events I’m finding more and more that I’m on an emotional downer. It is weird, given that I have so much else to look forward to and get excited about, but that ‘hole’ that you are left with can suck you in way too easily. There’s a challenge ahead in how I adapt and learn to cope with it better. I think remembering your motivations for doing what you do will play a key part in the coping mechanisms we can put in place.
What else has been going on?
As I write these words I also recall I did a 30 day run streak in January. I’d forgotten about that until writing this post! That was something I found a lot harder than I expected. The motivation and desire to run all the time is a big ask. I find it easier to keep running once I’m moving, but doing it day after day for shorter distances is a whole different experience entirely. Respect those who have completed streaks and to those who have streaks going on.
Blogging! This has also happened. I started the year running. Now I write and run? I don’t even like writing. But. it has helped me channel my thoughts and reflect on what I do. Who knows where the blog will head, more kit and product reviews for sure.
Realisation of the financial impact of running! As I continue into the next 6 months the other thing I’ve realised is that this isn’t cheap! Besides running I’m becoming addicted to buying running kit. So many trainers, so many tops and gadgets and tech. It’s great. But it costs a lot! Each race entry, the logistics and planning, it all costs. I used to say that running was great because its free. It is if you don’t get “too into it”!
Running isn’t Cheap!
So what comes next? What has the second part of the year got in store for me?
Well, for a start, it gets hard now. My next three runs are all 100km in distance. The CCC is the big one which will put me on a whole new level in terms of experience and I’ve so much to try to learn before then (running when tired, sleep deprived, mountain running, running in the dark etc.). Then there is the Berlin marathon. Part of my original aim for the year was to run a good for age qualifying time at Berlin. Then I obtained a place in the CCC just two weeks before. So that needs re-evaluating. I’ve no idea how I’ll feel when I fly out to Berlin. How my body will feel or even my mental state. However, I now know a lot of people who will also be out there, so the atmosphere is sure to be electric! I also obtained that GFA time in Malta (wooo) only for the bastards at the London Marathon to then move the goalposts a month later (Pricks). So I’m not sure if that goal is even valid anymore? Either way, Berlin is now turning into a bit of a party event. I now know so many people going that its going to be a great time no matter what I decide to do on the day. Then the remaining Ultras are all going to be shared with other people too. Different groups, all social in someway, including heading back to the Brecon Beacons, this time with Jon, Tommy and Kieron. Who knows how that will turn out!!
What am I going to change heading into the next 6 months? Hhmmm… right now, not a lot! Things are working right now so I won’t upset the balance too much. I’m becoming more involved in the social and community aspects of running so there will be more ‘running’ and more planning (runs, routes, meetups etc.). That will serve me from a training perspective. I’m keen to be more focused on the enjoyment and help remove the pressures I place upon myself, and I don’t intend to book any more events for this year! I do need to start thinking about 2019 though…
So to finally stop mumbling on…Looking back, I find it hard to believe that in such a short space of time I’ve become so passionate and involved in running. Taking the time to stop and reflect is going to become essential as the journey continues. As I acknowledge my goals, whats been achieved and adjust to what can be achieved, I sometimes think I need to be slapped with a trout and brought back to the reality of life! So onward to the next 6 months. Onward on these trails as I get ready to embrace the adventures, memories and more friendships that are coming my way!
Yesterday I ran the Race to the King trail run, part of the Threshold Trail Series. I’m getting straight on the blogging for this one as I’m finding that not only do I very quickly forget most of the run (probably through exhaustion) but that I’m needing to beat the runners-low which will inevitably kick in soon (more on that in a separate post to come).
The day started off with a super-early 4:30am alarm and I did not respond well. I was not interested in waking up and running all day, not yet anyway. What annoyed me most was, the first thing I could feel as I woke was that I’d developed a cold sore. Yep, I’m a carrier. I hate these bastards. They come out of nowhere. Always overnight and the make you feel disgusting and grim. It put me in a bad mood to start. Alas, I had a job to do. A couple of trains and a bus later and I’m pulling up to the starting village in Gaston Farm.
I was initially due to be in the first wave at 8am, but due to the summer train times and and a revised shuttle service, I was moved to the second wave at 8:15. I knew what to expect and was ready to go, all I needed was to fill my water bottles and bladder, drop my bag off and get that nervous piss out. The bus dropped me off at 7:55 and I was ready by 8:05. To my luck the first wave was just setting off, so I tagged on in at the back and as I did I saw some familiar faces. There was Tom and Derrick who I’ve met a few times, Elisa who I’ve also crossed paths with from time to time but never managed to say more than a passing hello to and to new faces in Anneka and Kelly (who welcomed me to the gang with a huge hug!). We were off.
And we are off…
The route immediately led us through a gate into the wideness of the South Downs. It was early, sunny and hot. It was going to be a long day. And I’d forgotten my sunglasses and, in my haste to start I hadn’t lubed up either. A runner’s error! I had a brief moment to chat to the guys over the first two miles as we thread pretty much single file along the paths before hitting the first of many hills to come. It was long, but not steep so I kept on plodding upwards. Before I’d realised I’d pulled away from the rest of the group and hadn’t said my goodbyes nor wished them happy paths. Doh. Onward I continued.
In my head I had a goal. Two weeks previously I finished the Race to the Tower Race to the Tower 2018 in 10 hours and 40 mins. This was a similar distance race but slightly hillier route, so I thought I might be able to run this one in under 10 hours through less longer walks, less time at pit stops and a slightly faster start. So I kept going. I soon got chatting to a guy called Jack who was with a group of others and he too was looking for a similar time to finish. Our time running together didn’t last long though as he found some supporters waiting to cheer him on. Together though we did run a section of the route that was trails through forest paths, the type of course I’m really growing to love. The shade, the variety, the colours of the trees and the sun breaking through. I love it. Apart from all the flies! There were alot of flies out on the South Downs yesterday!
The first two checkpoints came and went fairly quickly. With them they brought another two climbs, one of which was quickly following a short down hill stretch just after the 10 mile mark. Then, 5 miles later we encountered what I dubbed the ‘foot fucker’. There was a steep down hill followed by an immediate climb back up, both about 300ft of elevation. The down hill was steep and the ground was rocky and loose. I’m not sure how big stones need to be classified as ‘rocks’ but these were hefty. They would hurt if you were to kick them. Add this to the general un-evenness of the ground and the gravity and momentum of the run and it was quite frightening. The speed you are running with increases, you are looking down at your footings, simultaneously trying to plot your path down whilst grimacing at each rock that pierces your sole and each bashing your toes take as they crush forward in your shoes. There were a few unhappy faces at this point. And it continues as you power back up the incline.
Towards the top of the climb there were a lot of spectators sitting down, enjoying the views with the picnics. Cheering on the runners as they climbed slowly to the top. One of them was more devious than the rest. I man sitting in a camping chair at the top slowly pulled out his large camera to reveal himself as one the official course photographers. There was laughter from the crowd as I called him a bastard and started playing up for his pleasure. He was probably the most hated man on the South Downs that day.
What the Camera shows on Social Media
The reality behind it
The next few miles saw some undulating paths through a varied terrain before a short climb through the forest to Winchester Hill and an amazing view. The checkpoint just after the summit was the 23 mile mark. The Basecamp. Halfway (almost) there. A bit of a mental bashing to be at the basecamp but not quite being halfway to the finish. 30 Miles to go is not quite a distance you can break down in one chunk like saying “just a marathon to go”. It doesn’t work that way. As per the Race to the Tower I didn’t stop for the cooked food. Chowing down on Chocolate and Watermelon (not something I normally eat!) and changing my T-shirt before I was off again.
The checkpoints were, for a short time, now closer together than before. With less than 6 miles to the next stop it was easier to compartmentalise the run into smaller chunks. and the next part, winding through Queen Elizabeth Country park was fairly easy going. Refreshed from the basecamp stop the route was fairly down hill and continued along the lowest elevation of the course until pit stop 4. But what goes down must go back up and before hitting the checkpoint there was another large climb to come. Tactically I’d been consistent on the course, eating on all the ups to ensure I kept fuelled along the way.
Arriving at the pit stop I continued to do what I’d done at all of the others. Besides using the toilet when I could and knocking back a few cups of Coke, I took out my “food bag” and proceeded to fill it with goods that caught my attention. That’s right. This time I brought a bag to collect food as I ran!! I know. It doesn’t make sense. But I’m a greedy bastard. It was the forth checkpoint and my bag was now full. and I still had about 20 miles to run! The other thing to note at this pit stop was that I was chaffing! Damn, I’d come to regret not lubing up with the Bodyglide in my haste to start. Right between the legs I had two lovely red-raw patches of glory. Great. Lube on, too little too late.
Plodding onward the rest of the course has become a blur to my memory. What I do recall is as I caught up with other runners, to my surprise there were very few who wanted to chat, never mind even acknowledge my “hellos”. This was disappointing as I’ve always found the camaraderie on the trails to be great. Who were chatty though were the people met along the route. Everyone is always so happy in cheering you on and commenting on the run. What I’ve found great is the response to these interactions. In particular the question of “am I winning?” always goes down a treat and generates some laughter. That and ‘play-acting’ and running funny in response to their comments. You have to have some fun along the way, no matter how much it hurts!
There was another guy of note. Who’ll I’ll always remember as the ‘spray-mist guy’. he was everywhere. I must have seen him about 5 or 6 times along the later part of the course. Including once as he appeared from a pub garden with the shout “alright mate?! want some more?!”. I had a good laugh with him each time. He’d rocked up with a garden water pump and was willing spraying each and every runner who wanted a quick cool down. Whoever you are, thank you. For the spray and for the entertainment and support!
I blasted through Pit stop 5, only stopping to ram some more food into my bag! and I was soon approaching Pit stop 6, which would be about 10 miles from the end. This pit stop was supposedly only water and hydration as it was only 3 miles to the final pit stop. But what a welcome they were rolling out for the runners. They could see me approaching in the distance and the cowbells and cheering began in earnest. By the time I reached them there was great noise from the volunteers and to my surprise a range of goods on offer, alas, my bag was stuffed! I did stop though and filled my bladder. My thoughts were I’d refill my bottles at the last check point and what was let in my bladder would be my reserve water just in case. I also realised leading up to it that I had a stone in my shoe that would need removing. Foot fixed I carried on. A few hundred meters down the road though I had to stop again as somehow I seemed to have introduced more stones into my shoe than I’d taken out. For a short time afterwards I ran with a chap called Matt who’d set out quite fast and was now feeling it a little. We soon parted and the final Pit stop loomed ahead.
As I arrived there was yet again a strong welcome from the team at the pit stop. It helped being the only one there at the time. They filled my bottles as I noshed down some orange slices and checked the football scores they’d conveniently drawn up on the chalkboard. I probably spent too long at the checkpoint chatting but I felt good. and I was off again. The last section….
Throughout the run I’d been keeping an eye on my average pace. I was trying to run an average of 11 min miles and I was pretty much bang on. It’s quite tough over such a long distance to run this way as, with each period of walking, you have to run faster than the average for a much longer duration to keep on track. And those hills and pit stops very quickly pull the average down! I then made the mistake (not really but often feels wrong to do it) of switching the screens on my Garmin and seeing what the time was and how long I’d bee running. I had about 63 minutes left to get a sub 10 hour time. There were around (probably just under) 7 miles to go. It would be tight. At the average pace I wouldn’t make it, but I knew the last section was predominantly downhill. All I needed to do was keep moving. Keep running. I was going for it.
There were a few small hills that needed walking and one biggish one that played on my mind as it felt like I was walking for a long time. I kept going though. The running at this point became a process. The fun was gone. I was chasing times again. I don’t like it when I get competitive like this, I forget why I run. The enjoyment I get from it. It gets hard. Throughout this stretch though I passed quite a few other runners. Each one becoming a target in the distance that I chased down and passed (including Rachel who wen’t on to finish as third female, amazing!). There were markers for 2 miles to go and final mile. Each time I calculated the time, I was doing this. without hills or walking I’d come in well under 10 hours. Before I knew it I’d entered the town of Winchester and was running around the roads surrounding the Cathedral. Rounding the corner the Winchester Cathedral towered over me. Camera in my face I acted like a dick again. Bounding down the stairs and over the finish line. 9 hours 49mins on the clock. A big smile on my face.
I’d been a long time follower of Run Talk Run. Instagram brought the group, and Jessica (the founder) to my attention. I love the simplicity of their message and intention. It’s not a running group. More like a support group. Like minded people being there for one another. Running is just the vessel they’ve chosen to deliver their message and actions.
They usually run in London on Thursday evenings (now also Tuesdays) which hasn’t been convenient for me. So when they announced a weekend run I was straight in there.
Sunday morning would be a visit to Epping Forest. A place I only recently experienced and am glad to go back to. Even if it does mean two trains to get to the start of the tube, sitting on it from end to end and then another train the other side! The scenery in the forest is spectacular. So many shades of green line the paths, its hard not to have jaw drop whilst running amongst the freshness and colours.
I arrived super early which gave me a chance for a little wander and to see a section of Epping Forest. Upon returning to the station Jess, who organises RTR arrived. Whilst chatting about the running community and how small it is two connections became apparent. Firstly Derrick who I know from the Burger Runs (and whom I saw yesterday!) was coming and had planned the route for the run and secondly Cat (a RTR regular) who also came along was also at the NSL trail run in Hampstead Heath a few weeks back. I keep saying it, it is such a small community. Its Awesome!
We set off running and chatting and were immediately welcomed by the wonderful wildlife of Epping. Firstly horses and then tiny (baby?) frogs which were littered all over the path. The route we took was largely familiar to me from the run I did here a few weeks back.
The run itself was very pleasant. It was such a great vibe as we ran and talked. No pressures. No expectations. No barriers. Just company and people to share motivations with. I liked it. The concept works so well in practice.
It was clear to me that everyone who’d come along was similar. Determined with a strong sense of self-awareness of what works for them and what doesn’t. Over a coffee/juice/hot chocolate we shared stories from running and aspirations, not necessarily about running. World put to right we headed back to the station, energised from a morning of smiles.